Decapitated heads, arms outstretched in pain and, oddly enough, characters from horror movies are visible throughout Wat Rong Khun, better known as the White Temple. True faith is suffering and pain, says the temple’s creator Chalermchai Kositpipat of the modern Buddhist temple. Sammi and I took the bus to Chiang Rai for the sole purpose of visiting this famously bizarre landmark.
After arriving at the bus station around noon, we quickly checked into our hotel and took a taxi to the temple. I donned my sarong covering my legs, as despite its unusual appearance, the temple is still a house of worship. We walked around the temple first to take in its detailed sculpture covering every surface of the building before stepping inside of the temple itself.
Signs said foreigners weren’t allowed without a tour guide, but we weren’t stopped. There are no photos allowed inside, but you’ll see off-putting murals depicting the September 11 attacks alongside characters like Spiderman.
We visited the temple to see what the fuss was all about and what made this one so different from the dozens we’d already seen around Chiang Mai. And its political nature and pop culture references are what truly sets it apart, whether in a positive or negative way.
We didn’t realize it when we visited in mid April, but we were among some of the last to see the temple in its present state, as last week an earthquake hit Chiang Rai, damaging the temple and closing it to visitors. Pillars inside the temple have been cracked and many of the spires and sculptural details have fallen off or been broken by the quake. It is rumored to already be open again to tourists, but you still can’t go back inside the temple.
The White Temple was certainly one of the more bizarre places we’ve visited while in Asia, but is worth visiting if you’re in the area and if the temple has been reopened. You can take a bus from Chiang Mai bus station for 170 baht ($5 USD), which takes around 2.5 hours. You can make a day trip of it, but it will be a long day.
Wow, that is really bizarre. There’s something pretty about the spiraling white façade though.
What are hands in the second-to-last photo reaching out for? The picture is a little unsettling and I’d love to know more.
They’re built into a cutout in the ground, so they almost reach to the walkway. Super creepy!