The Best and Worst of Australian Hostels
I stayed in more hostels in Australia than I ever care to count. Some were great, some were disgusting and some weren’t really memorable. In this post I will break them all down with you, in complete honesty, for every hostel I stayed at, in every city I visited. There are a number of large hostel chains that operate hostels throughout Australia and New Zealand that you should know about. All hostel descriptions list prices in Australian dollars.
The YHA is your basic Hostelling International location with all the reliability that goes with it. Some, like the Coffs Harbour and Canberra YHAs, aren’t much to look at, but have all the necessities. A few, including the Magnetic Island and Newcastle locations, have their own distinct personalities based on the towns. YHAs aren’t always the cheapest, but you always know what you’re going to get. YHA memberships give you discounts at the hostels, as well as restaurants, tours and activities throughout the country.
Base is the hip, new kid on the block, with hostels throughout Australia and New Zealand. They have locations in Melbourne, Sydney, Airlie Beach, Magnetic Island and two in Brisbane. Base also teams up with other hostels that are known as “Base mates,” who offer Base discounts. Their hostels are known as the party spots, always with accompanying bars and their bucket drinks. The Magnetic Island location has a well-known full moon party once a month that brings in international DJs.
Nomads falls somewhere in between the two and also has locations throughout Australia and New Zealand. Like YHA, they have their Mad card that gives discounts to members. They also have bars attached to them.
In my experience, the smaller, family-run hostels were a better fit for me. They offered more amenities that bigger chains charged for, like WiFi or dishes. They also had more personality. I’ve basically listed the notes I jotted down for each hostel. For more information, you can click on my related posts or the hostel name to go to their websites.
Best
Backpack Oz, Adelaide, South Australia
- Dorms have 4-12 beds in both mixed and female, in addition to singles and doubles
- Guest House next door is more like apartments
- Free breakfast
- Free WiFi, bar, common room, cheap meals
- Friendly staff
- Close to Victoria Square
- Price: $26-90
- See post: Review: Backpack Oz
Ozzie Pozzie, Port Macquarie, New South Wales
- Friendly owner Richard accommodates late arrivals
- Free computers with internet
- Free tea, coffee, jam, toast, cereal
- Close to beach and bus stop
- Arranges tours, bbq, pizza night with goon
- 4-10 bed dorms
- Price: $25/night 6 bed dorm
- See post: Home Sweet Ozzie Pozzie
Banana Benders, Brisbane, Queensland
- Great location, near Caxton Street, park, bus station
- Courtyard with tv, kitchen
- WiFi secure, computers, phones
- Great playlist
- Cleaned daily
- Price: $22/night 4 bed dorm
- See post: Settling Into Brisbane
Scotty’s Beach House, Mission Beach, Queensland
- Bar/restaurant by the beach
- 4 bed “princess rooms” with air-conditioning, hair dryers, blankets
- Pool, laundry, kitchen, TV
- Hire cutlery, Global Gossip internet
- Recovering from Cyclone Yasi, family run
- Courtesy van hourly, short walk from bus stop and Woolworth’s
- Price: $29/night 4 bed dorm
Cool Bananas, Agnes Water, Queensland
- Licensed, but laid back about BYO alcohol
- Kitchen, great $6 meals nightly
- TV room, 3 computers, hammocks, no WiFi
- 8 bed dorm, outside bathrooms
- Near town and the beach
- Helpful staff
- Price: $25/night 8 bed dorm
Bungalow Bay, Magnetic Island, Queensland
- Near beach at Horseshoe Bay
- In-house wildlife park
- Licensed bar, clean
- Camp kitchen, nice beds, activities
- Not enough electrical plugs
- Bungalows ensuite, 6-8 bed, camping sites
- Rent cars and scooters
- Can work for accommodation
- Price: $30/6 share but you can book packages with koala park
- See Post: My Dear Maggie
Dingo’s, Rainbow Beach, Queensland
- Small rooms, ensuite
- Bar, pool
- Organizes Fraser Island self-drive tours
- Near town
- Small kitchen, nightly cheap $6 meals
- No fan or A/C
- Computers and free internet at PeterPans Travel Agency
- No WiFi
- Price: $24/7 bed mixed dorm
PK’s Jungle Village, Cape Tribulation, Queensland
- Bar, restaurant, pool
- In rainforest
- Frequented by locals
- No ensuite, outdoor bathrooms
- Camping available
- Global Gossip internet
- Camp kitchen, rent cutlery
- Popular with tour packages from Cairns
- Price: $25/7 share dorm
- See Post: Tropical Cape Tribulation
Worst
Adventurer’s, Townsville, Queensland
- Dirty, run down motel turned hostel
- Townies living there as well as backpackers
- Nice family runs it
- Far from the ferry and bus terminal
- Close to local bus stop
- Nearby bars, BYO
- Large kitchen, game room, common area
- Small rooms, terrible mattresses, cold showers
- Plans events like Halloween party
- Price: $24/night 6 bed
Haven, Alice Springs, Northern Territory
- Not close to town
- Good facilities, pool, van from airport
- Staff has bad attitude
- Computers, kitchen, free light breakfast
- Mostly people leaving for outback tours
- No atmosphere
- Ensuite dorms
- Price: $19/night 8 bed dorm
- See post: Review: Haven Alice Springs
Cairns Beach House, Cairns, Queensland
- Far from town, run down
- Shuttle, pool, bar, free meals
- Storage, free WiFi (slow)
- 24 hour reception if you can find staff
- Terrible staff, bugs, broken showers
- Price: $10-15/night 10 bed
Base St. Kilda, Melbourne, Victoria
- Nice area, short tram from city
- Useless staff in emergency
- Computers with Global Gossip internet
- Red Eye bar
- Paid parking
- Ensuite dorms
- Sanctuary all-female dorm
- Price: $30/8 bed mixed dorm
- See post: Being a Refugee in Melbourne
The Rest
Newcastle YHA, Newcastle, New South Wales
- Free stuff every night: trivia, bingo, meals
- Large common area with pool, ping pong, books, tv
- Internet, phone, WiFi, free with Greyhound mag
- Kitchen, laundry
- Hallway bathrooms, m/f 3 showers, 3 toilets
- Close to bus and train, near free city bus
- Can work for accommodation
- Price: $33/night
- See post: Photo Essay: Newcastle
Arts Factory, Byron Bay, New South Wales
- Not close to town, but hourly courtesy van
- Teepees, tents, dorms, camping
- Pay for blanket, pots, pans, internet (deposit)
- Café, bar, restaurant, pool, laundry, nature walks
- Next door to brewery and restaurant/movie theater
- Small, grimy rooms, lockers
- Cheap dinners
- Activities: yoga class, bush walks, digeridoo lessons
- Price: $37/6 share female
- See post: Being a Hippie in Byron Bay
Nomads Noosa, Noosa, Queensland
- Must rent plates and cutlery
- Kitchen, pool, KB’s bar, restaurant
- Near bus station, main street
- Bus pickup
- 8-16 bed mixed ensuite dorms
- Outdoor common area
- Price: $32/8 bed mixed dorm
Nomads Airlie Beach, Airlie Beach, Queensland
- Near all of Airlie, the lagoon
- Cash only at the moment
- Pool, bar
- Deposit for cutlery, lockers
- Dirty, ants in kitchen and rooms
- 8-10 bed bungalows, ensuite
- Campervan and tent sites
- Price: $28/6-8 bed mixed dorm
Canberra YHA, Canberra, Australian Capital Territory
- Only hostel in Canberra
- Rude staff
- No oven in kitchen, large
- Pool, next to bar, internet café, rooftop deck with BBQ
- Air conditioned rooms
- Far from sights
- Price: $28.50/10 share mixed
- See post: Canberra: It’s Not Easy Being the ACT
Coffs Harbour YHA, Coffs Harbour, New South Wales
- Clinical feeling
- Close to marina but not rest of Coffs Harbour
- Lots of families staying there
- Near grocery store, bottle shop, cafes
- Pool, courtyard, kitchen
- Global Gossip internet
- Activities, tour packages
- Helpful reception
- Price: $29/4 share female
Aquarius, Surfers Paradise, Queensland
- Not close to Surfers, in Southport
- Shuttle only goes until 6 pm
- Organizes Backpackers Night Out
- Blankets, DVDs, couches
- Small kitchen, licensed bar
- 1 hour free WiFi, but very slow
- Price: $30/night 4 bed dorm
- See post: Photo Essay: Surfers Paradise
Annie’s Place, Adelaide, South Australia
- Bar closes whenever staff decides
- Book exchange, kitchen, courtyard, WiFi
- Short walk from town
- Feels like an old house, good security
- Price: $23/night dorms, $75/night private
- See post: Adelaide: Melbourne’s Hipster Kid Sister
Apollo Bay Backpackers Lodge, Apollo Bay, Victoria
- Like a motor lodge, guests keep to themselves
- Kitchen, short walk from grocery store and town
- Price: $28/night 4 bed dorm
Warrnambool Beach Backpackers, Warrnambool, Victoria
- Right next to beach, long walk from town
- Rentals for bikes, surfboards
- Hallway bathrooms, kitchen, common area, bar
- Price: $80/night private room, $25/night dorm bed
- See post: Photo Essay: Great Ocean Road
I hope this has been helpful for anyone planning a trip to Australia!
The Australian Adventure: One Year Later
Precisely one year ago today, I landed in Sydney, beginning what would be the most unpredictable year of my life. You’ve read all about my adventures, but here was my year by the numbers.
Days traveled: 317
States/territories visited: 6- New South Wales, Victoria, South Australia, Australian Capital Territory, Queensland, Northern Territory. I missed Western Australia and Tasmania!
Books read: 34 (see What I Read in 2011)
Hostels stayed in: 22
Photographs taken: 2,724
Islands visited: 5- Kangaroo, Fraser, Whitsunday, Magnetic, Cockatoo
Nights spent camping: 6 times too many
Buses: 14, not including city buses
Planes: 12, including the ones to and from Australia
Boats: 6, including ferries
Miles by bus: 3,042 kilometers, 1,890 miles from Sydney to Cairns
Miles by car: 3,359 kilometers, 2,087 miles from Sydney to Adelaide and back
Best tour: Scooteroo- A tough call, considering all the tours I went on, but I went back and forth about it for a few days and I was so glad I did it. I was in no rush to get to Airlie Beach, so I spent an extra day in Agnes Water being scared shitless on the back of a 50cc motorbike. It is the best way to see the adorable Queensland town, complete with riding gear, kangaroo sightings and a spot to watch the sunset in the Town of 1770.
Worst tour: Sealink Kangaroo Island- It’s not that I didn’t enjoy this tour. I really did, but I found the other tours I went on to be better, not to mention a better value for my money. I felt that we only stopped at the tourist stops and only one of them really interested me, the Remarkable Rocks. We did, though, have a terrific guide who was a native of the island.
Best hostel: Bungalow Bay, Backpack Oz, Ozzie Pozzie, Banana Benders, Scotty’s Beach House- I found a lot of hostels that I loved and the thing most of them had in common was that they were family run. Bungalow Bay, the exception, is a YHA with an in-house animal sanctuary. Backpack Oz, Ozzie Pozzie, Banana Benders and Scotty’s Beach House were all great because you saw the owners present every day, planning nightly events, organizing tours and in some instances, drinking with you.
Worst hostel: Cairns Beach House, Adventurer’s Townsville- Adventurer’s was very run down, far from town and had terrible beds, but the nice staff and events made up for it. Cairns Beach House, however, had nothing going for it. Rude staff, far from town, terrible meals, slow Internet, cold showers, etc. You name it, CBH did not have it. Stay far away!
Meat pies consumed: 7 and this is probably an underestimate!
Native animals eaten: 2- kangaroo, crocodile
Vegemite eaten: 0, but one small spoonful of Promite was enough to put me off it!
“Big” items seen: 5- Merino, Banana, Cassowary, Mango, Prawn
Life List items crossed off: 12- Numbers 22, 27, 70, 25, 1, 40, 5, 6, 7, 20, 42, 63
UNESCO World Heritage sites visited: 7- Uluru-Kata Tjuta National Park, Greater Blue Mountains Area, Sydney Opera House, Australian Convict Sites, Fraser Island, Great Barrier Reef, Wet Tropics of Queensland
Beds slept in: 26 (see Where I Slept in Oz)
Twitter friends met IRL: 14
Most overrated: Uluru, Cairns- Uluru is great and all, but I found Kata Tjuta to be more impressive. Uluru is pretty much exactly how you think it’s going to be. And Cairns isn’t much to look at, just a whole lot of backpacker bars.
Most underrated: Kata Tjuta, Brisbane, Magnetic Island- Like I said above, Kata Tjuta is really the better looking twin. Brisbane is a beautiful city on the river with great bars and an art scene. And Magnetic Island is lovely because it’s not party-centric like the rest of the East Coast.
Best sunrise: Kata Tjuta- As miserable as I was to wake up this early, I must admit that the sunrise here was amazing, especially since you could also see the sun rising over Uluru to the east.
Best sunset: Uluru and Whitsundays- This one is a tie because at the Uluru sunset, my travel companions and I opened a beer and watched the rock change colors. In the Whitsundays, I sat by myself on a rock, away from the rest of the group, and enjoyed a rare moment of solitude.
Favorite beer: James Squire Sundown, Vale Ale- James Squire is a Sydney-based but Brisbane-owned brewery with a lot of beers in the more American craft style. Vale Ale is a wheat beer made by a winery in the McClaren Vale wine region of South Australia.
Least favorite beer: Victoria Bitter- Do I really need to explain this one? I’ll take PBR over VB any day.
Most expensive city: Kangaroo Island- While technically not a city, our day tour there cost significantly more than we spent in any other destination.
Cheapest city: Coffs Harbour- There are lots of variables in determining cheapest and most expensive, especially since I spent more in cities I enjoyed. But Coffs Harbour didn’t have much to do and it rained the whole time, so it was easy not to spend money.
Total amount spent on visas: $270
Total amount spent: $19,223.15
So what am I doing today? My dear Aussie boy, one of the main reasons I started this adventure, is spending a few weeks with me in America. I’ve been working my seasonal temp job that I do twice a year so I can save up for this trip and future ones and possibly to settle down with an apartment for a little while. Other than that, you’ll just have to keep reading. Thanks for following along with my Australian Adventure.
Related Reading:
My Australian Travel Mistakes
I definitely enjoyed my time in Australia, as the number of posts about this year will tell you. But if I had to do it all over again, would I change anything? The answer is YES. I did a lot of things wrong and I hope you can learn from my mistakes!
When to Leave
I wish I had left earlier for many reasons. One, I wish I had been there for more of the Southern Hemisphere summer instead of spending the majority of my time there in Australian winter, which is mild, mind you. Secondly, I wish I had spent New Years Eve in Sydney since I ended up leaving before Christmas. But at the time, I was glad I didn’t leave until the end of January since I celebrated my dad’s 50th birthday with friends and family and I also got the chance to work for a few weeks before leaving.
Flights
I was searching for deals for a long time before I settled on my fare on United with a layover in Los Angeles. It was a reasonable price, but I wish I had considered a one way ticket. Instead, I picked a return date after three months, just in case I hated it, and ended up spending $250 to change the ticket to a more reasonable return date in December.
Packing
When I left, I had no idea how long I would want to stay in Australia, so I packed only for one season: summer. Unfortunately, by the time we got to Melbourne, I was freezing my butt off in my shorts and dresses. I clearly didn’t do enough research about the differing climates in the country. Once it finally got cold, I had to buy an entire new wardrobe and have items sent from home. I also expected to be traveling for most of the time I was away and packed mostly backpacker clothes, nothing I could wear to a job interview or nice dinner. I packed lots of things I didn’t even need. My backpack felt too large to carry on short trips, so I ended up borrowing a duffel bag for shorter jaunts.
Savings
Before leaving for Australia, I had about $2,000 saved up, which was not even enough for visa requirement, about $3,000 short. I soon learned why that number was chosen in the first place: Australia is freakin’ expensive. I didn’t save enough to travel for more than two weeks and didn’t have enough money to save for an apartment. I ended up borrowing money for the bond on my apartment and paying it back after I got a job. Had I saved up more money prior, I wouldn’t have had to stay at my job for six months to save up for the East Coast and Uluru trips.
Expectations
Having spent a decent amount of time in Europe, I figured the exchange rate couldn’t really be that different. But I was wrong. My wallet was hit very hard my first few weeks in Sydney because I hadn’t figured out what was expensive and what was reasonable. I also thought I wouldn’t really need a job and that I could coast with my $2,000 for a while. Wrong. And did I mention Australia is huge? Flying from one side to the other is like it is in the US.
Job
I didn’t really want to find a job in the first place, since my goal there was to travel and to leave behind the boring cafe job in the states. I wanted to live off of my freelance writing, but once I realized the Internet situation Down Under leaves a lot to be desired, that concept changed. I handed out my resume at nearby businesses but didn’t ever hear back from any. It wasn’t until I got my RSA and went from place to place talking to managers that I finally got a job. I didn’t expect to stay there for six months, but I got so comfortable, made so many friends, and enjoyed having a steady paycheck.
Trip planning
As I said, I had very unrealistic expectations about how far my money would get me. In my mind, I could do the East Coast, Uluru, Melbourne, Perth, Darwin and still have time for New Zealand and Fiji. Little did I know that it takes more than a year to see Australia properly. I wish I had planned out my finances and time better so that I could have seen at least Perth and Tasmania. But I suppose that’s one of many reasons for me to go back to Australia?
Anything else I should have done differently?
My Favorite Eats of 2011
I know you’ve already read all about my crazy year. The things I did. The books I read. But did I mention how much food I ate? I seriously do not know how I fit on the plane without a seatbelt extender. This was also the year I started being a serious blog geek by photographing my food. And I am warning you that very little of these meals could be construed as “healthy.” So without further delay, I present you with my favorite eats of 2011.
Spicy shrimp at Giovanni’s, Oahu, Hawaii
The North Shore of Hawaii is known for its food trucks. I had heard good things about Giovanni’s before we got there and I couldn’t wait to check it out. I’m a spicy foods addict, so I knew I had to try the spicy shrimp. The girl at the counter warned me. “You know this is really hot, right?” But how bad could it be? My sister Rachel and I shared a plate and had to take a break after only a few shrimp and went through two bottles of water. Even the large portion of rice couldn’t cool us down! But I would eat it again in a heartbeat!
Mahi Mahi tacos, Luibueno’s, Oahu, Hawaii
I was starved for decent Mexican for many months in Sydney, so when we came upon this Mexican restaurant I was like a fat kid at a candy store. I went all out: drank Sol, had fish tacos, chips and salsa, churros and Mexican hot chocolate.
Meat Pie, Harry’s Cafe de Wheels, Sydney
While I was no meat pie novice, I had never had one like the world famous pies of Harry’s Cafe de Wheels. Tommy took me to the original location in Wooloomooloo, where I had the original pie with mash and gravy. I went back many times, including once in Newcastle and even brought my friend Christine to the Haymarket location when she was in town. It’s been visited by many celebrities, including my man Anthony Bourdain.
Hamburger and Fries, In n Out Burger, Los Angeles
Obviously I couldn’t spend any time on the West Coast without going to In N Out Burger. My first visit was in Las Vegas four years ago, so I was aching for their perfectly cooked fries. Thankfully, I stayed at a hostel right around the corner from one so I got my burger fix. My dining companion, pictured above, is the mascot from the elementary school my mom teaches at. I think Murphy enjoyed it just as much as I did.
Everything at Chat Thai, Sydney
When Heather was leaving to go back to America, the Travel Massive-ers went to dinner at Chat Thai in Chinatown, known as the best Thai in Sydney. We waited for almost an hour for a table, but once I tried the food I knew it was worth it. I can’t even remember what we ordered, but there was plenty to go around! I’m not the biggest Thai fan, but I cannot say good enough things about this place.
Tandoori chicken pizza, Australian Hotel, Sydney
Having grown up on “New York” style pizza, thin with tons of cheese, the idea of putting stuff like tandoori chicken or kangaroo onto pizza was completely foreign. But the spicy tandoori cooled down with mint yogurt hit the spot the first time I went there after Tommy and I walked across the Harbour Bridge. When Christine and Joey came to visit, I knew I had to take them there and they weren’t disappointed either. The kangaroo half is Joey’s!
Cinnamon Toast, Post Cafe, Sydney
This spot in my suburb of Marrickville quickly became my favorite local cafe once I sampled their $7 cinnamon toast and tea combo: two of my favorite things! I ordered this literally every time I went there and never left unsatisfied. They had thick, Turkish bread with plenty of cinnamon and sugar, topped with fresh fruit. It didn’t hurt that they had a big selection of magazines and were ideally located for people watching.
Tamales, Flying Fajita Sistas, Sydney
Due to my unhealthy obsession with Mexican food, I managed to track down every Mexican spot in Sydney. For my birthday, Tommy took me to Flying Fajita Sistas in Glebe, a cute place with Mexican beer (Modelo!), a hot sauce bar and a long list of unique margaritas. And oh yeah, DELICIOUS food. I ordered tamales, which are hard to find back home, let alone in Australia, and was very impressed.
Chicken and Andouille Sausage Gumbo, Jazz City Diner, Sydney
Before returning home, I went to dinner with two of my favorite American expats, Lauren and Hannah, at an American-style diner in Sydney. It was a rainy night and I was in the mood for something warm. The gumbo tasted just like the kind I’d had at home. After a chocolate milkshake, I was ready to waddle out of this Darlinghurst joint.
Malasadas, Leonard’s, Honolulu, Hawaii
Holy crap do I love these sugary balls of dough. They were my reward after waking up at the crack of dawn to hike the Diamond Head crater and we went back at least two more times after the original visit.
Spicy Chicken Pizza, Kona Brewing Company, Kona, Hawaii
While visiting the brewery, we had lunch at their restaurant, which turned out to be one of my favorite meals of the trip. They use the leftovers from making beer to create bread and pizza dough. Sammi and I split the spicy chicken pizza, which tasted like a hot wing on dough, complete with the hot sauce and bleu cheese!
Roo steak, Scotty’s, Mission Beach
I finally got around to eating kangaroo towards the end of my trip (incidentally, a few days before I got to play with one up close!) and I can’t say I didn’t enjoy it. I got a discounted meal at the restaurant attached to my hostel, where I got the kangaroo steak with mashed potatoes and a plum sauce. I washed it down with a nice glass of sauvignon blanc. I thought the ‘roo was a little tough, but it was definitely an experience.
Are you hungry yet? What was your favorite or most adventurous meal of the year?
Photo Essay: Where I Slept in Oz
In my almost year in Australia, I slept a lot of places. Dozens of hostels, a few floors, friends’ apartments, two boats, tents, swags and countless cities. It all started in Sydney at Tommy’s house in Petersham, where he and his dad graciously let me sleep until I found my own pad. I got very comfortable at their house, especially on Australia Day when I barely left the apartment complex pool.
Once we started our road trip, we stayed at the Canberra YHA. It was nice enough, somewhat basic, but good. My most vivid memories of my stay there were the air conditioning, which was the only relief from the Australian summer heat, and the noisy snoring Brit who was one of our bunkmates.
The first time in Adelaide, we stayed at Annie’s Place, which is in an old house not far from the city center. We spent our days lounging in the courtyard and taking advantage of the free wireless. This room had lots of weird magazine photos of celebrities pasted on the walls and only had one light.
Back in Sydney, I moved into my Dulwich Hill apartment, in this small room, which was just right for me. I didn’t have a lot of stuff and it was furnished, so I didn’t mind the size. It had everything I needed: a nice kitchen, a washing machine and good location near the grocery store and train station. I stayed here for 4 months and was sad to leave it!
After moving out of my apartment and before going traveling, I stayed in Coogee in the spare room of my friend Flo’s house. I had a blast walking down to the beach, making pizzas for dinner and hanging out with my friends.
The night before leaving for my outback trip, I stayed at Alice Springs’ Haven Backpackers Hostel. I wasn’t impressed with the hostel staff, but I had a decent night’s sleep before waking up at the crack of dawn.
I’ve been camping before, but not like this. At Uluru (pictured) and Kings Creek Station, we all slept in swags, which are essentially body bags with sleeping bags inside, set right into the dirt. Not the best nights’ sleep I’ve ever had, to say the least.
On the other hand, my best night’s sleep was at an underground hostel in Coober Pedy. What more could I ask for? Complete darkness, coolness and no sound.
On the second time in Adelaide, I switched it up by staying at Backpack Oz’s Guest House. It had a tv and a double bed and gave me the chance to catch on sleep after those rough nights in the outback.
Newcastle YHA had a lot of charm, since it was built in an old hospital, but I wasn’t happy to have a top bunk, especially since the room had bugs that flew around the windows and ceiling.
I could have died happy at Ozzie Pozzie in Port Macquarie. The rooms were a good size, the beds were comfortable and there was plenty of room for my backpack. It had free Internet, breakfast and pizza nights.
Byron Bay’s Arts Factory Lodge was one of the more unique places I stayed, but this room was pretty small. Something was wrong with the keys and sometimes they would work and others they wouldn’t.
This small messy room was my digs in Surfers Paradise at Aquarius. It wasn’t my favorite spot because there was barely room to unpack your bag, but the common area had a big couch, TV and DVD library, which made up for it.
I got comfortable at Banana Benders in Brisbane, where I spent en entire week! It had a porch with a view of suburban Brisbane that I fell in love with.
Flat Caitlin poses in this bed at Nomads in Noosa, where I stayed for 3 nights in a 8 bed dorm with all guys. Thank God they were comfortable beds!
I apparently didn’t take a picture of this myself, so it’s borrowed from their website, but in the Whitsundays, I spent two fuzzy nights on a boat. My bed was the top right across from the ladder, above a couple. Awkward, to say the least.
Two hours from Cairns, on the Great Barrier Reef, I spent a night on a scuba diving boat. The 4-share cabin was tiny, but it had decent mattresses and turned out to be better than some hostels I stayed at!
2011: My Year in Review
How do I even begin to describe this year? I’m still processing it myself, so this post will serve as a Cliffs Notes version of my year, in case you missed it. I will be getting into what’s next for me in future notes, but for now, sit back, relax and relive my year Down Under!
January: I spent most of the month working and counting down the days until my departure. I celebrated my father’s 50th birthday with friends and family while also saying goodbye. I left on January 20th to spend a few days in Los Angeles before the long-haul flight to Australia. I spent my first night at USA Hostels in Hollywood before couchsurfing with a girl in La Brea. In my few days there, I had a tweetup with Jade and Bob of Vagabond 3 and Rebecca of Travels at 88 MPH and took a film noir tour of the city with Esotouric Tours. I landed in Sydney on January 25th, overwhelmed by a new country and a new relationship. I celebrated my first Australia Day nonchalantly, by lying in the pool all day to avoid the unbearable heat. I went to my first Travel Massive, where I met the people who would give me advice on adjusting to life in Australia. Tommy took me to the Blue Mountains to see the Three Sisters and get out of the city for the day.
February: Tommy and I left for a whirlwind tour of southeastern Australia. From Sydney, we stopped in Canberra for a few days to catch up with friends we met in Europe, soak up the capital and break up the long drive to Melbourne. I was excited about Melbourne, but our stay there was not what you could call pleasant after our hostel and car got flooded, stranding us without power and a way out of town for a week. Thankfully, friends of Tommy let us stay with them until his car could be fixed, which meant we got to see more of Melbourne than originally planned. Once the car situation was sorted out, we decided to continue on to the Great Ocean Road, which I heard was the best part of the country and I wasn’t disappointed. Since we had come this far, we threw Adelaide into the itinerary and our visit coincided with the annual Fringe Festival, where we got the chance to see one of the performances. From there, we took a day trip to Kangaroo Island, where we didn’t actually see any kangaroos.
March: After too much time freeloading off Tommy and his dad, I started handing out resumes all over town and signed up for my RSA course, a requirement to work in bars and restaurants in Australia. Within an hour of getting my certificate, I had landed myself an interview at what would become my job for the next six months and where I would make some of my best friends. I witnessed the insanity of Sydney Mardi Gras. I celebrated St. Patrick’s Day with my American expat mates. I also moved into my apartment in Marrickville with my two Aussie flatmates.
April: I settled into a routine, becoming a regular at cafes in Newtown and Marrickville and reading the travel sections in the newspaper over a cup of tea. I went on a day tour of the Hunter Valley, which covered Ku Ring Gai Chase National Park as well as a few vineyards in the valley. Tommy took me to my first AFL game, Sydney Swans vs. Geelong Cats, and I still can’t say I fully understand the sport. I just barely survived working ANZAC Day, also known as Australia’s biggest drinking holiday.
May: We took a few day trips, including one to Palm Beach, the filming location for Home and Away. I came down with dysentery in a “developed” country, go figure. I saw my idol, Anthony Bourdain, at the Sydney Writers Festival.
June: I flew to Hawaii to meet up with my sisters and mom for my youngest sister’s sixteenth birthday trip. We spent two weeks catching up, eating, drinking, hiking and tanning all over Hawaii, Oahu and Kauai. Tommy and I took a day trip to the southern coastal town of Kiama, known for tasty fish and chips and the blowhole.
July: I celebrated American Independence Day with more American expats at a bar in the city, complete with Miller beers and authentic New Orleans-style gumbo. I celebrated my 23rd birthday by working for 12 hours and going for drinks with my coworkers. Christine and Joey, two of my best (and recently engaged!) friends visited me in Sydney for a few days and I got to show them around.
August: I spent time with my friend in Coogee, discovering new cafes in Erskineville and generally working entirely too much.
September: I worked an event for the Australian team in the Rugby World Cup, but I couldn’t tell you who any of the players were. I said goodbye to my job before I went traveling. I stayed with my friend in Coogee before I left for my Outback trip. My Groovy Grape tour took me from Alice Springs through Uluru, Kata Tjuta and Kings Canyon before looping down through Coober Pedy to Adelaide. After a week recovering in Sydney, I took the Greyhound bus to Newcastle and Port Macquarie.
October: What was supposed to be warm and sunny on the New South Wales coast was instead rainy and cold. Maybe that’s why I didn’t fall for Coffs Harbour, but I did have a great surf lesson there. Byron Bay and neighboring Nimbin were next, full of hippies and Surfers Paradise was not my idea of paradise, but might be if you’re into Jersey Shore/bachelor parties/spring break-style shenanigans. I felt at home in Brisbane and could have spent more than a week there. Noosa didn’t have quite as much to offer, nor did Rainbow Beach, but I enjoyed my time in both towns. Fraser Island was far from my favorite stop of the trip, as you already know, but that’s the way traveling goes. You’re not going to love everything. Agnes Water and the Town of 1770, however, were a pleasant surprise, with cheap surfing, nice beaches and the Scooteroo tours. The night bus from Agnes Water to Airlie Beach nearly killed me, leaving at 9 p.m. and arriving at 7 a.m. I was finally in the tropical climate, leaving the hoodie I needed in New South Wales at the bottom of my backpack. The Whitsundays were surreal, with the most blue waters I’ve ever seen. Every day was eat, drink, snorkel, sleep. Townsville wasn’t much to look at to an outsider, but I was lucky enough to have a local show me around and I had one of the craziest Halloweens of my life, which is saying a lot, considering the holiday is like a religion back home.
November: Magnetic Island was one of the only places I planned on going the entire trip. I knew I wanted to stay at the Bungalow Bay Koala Village and get to hold my spirit animal, which I did. I also scootered around the island and went for a few swims without getting stung by any jellyfish. I stopped in Mission Beach on the way to Cairns because I sensed I wasn’t quite ready for the city’s party reputation. I spent three days in the hurricane-ravaged town cooking myself proper meals, catching up on blog posts and making a new feline friend. Cairns was even hotter than I expected and I stayed in quite possibly, the worst hostel I’ve ever seen. I got out of there as soon as I could with an overnight trip to Cape Tribulation, where it rained on and off the entire time. I did see crocodiles, kangaroos, emus and cassowaries up close, though. Back in Cairns, I took a scuba diving course and went on the ill-fated pub crawl. The icing on the cake was bungy jumping on my final day in town. I got back to Sydney sunburnt, broke and exhausted. Thankfully, I still had time for a day at Cronulla, dinner with friends, a costume party with work mates, Christmas shopping, a trip to Cockatoo Island, one final Travel Massive, the Bridge Climb, a tour of the Sydney Opera House and a painful goodbye with Tommy.
December: I never thought I’d make it home but after two delayed flights and over 20 hours on a plane, I crashed in my newly painted room and slept for most of a day. I caught up with friends and family and started working part time the next week to save up for future travels. My family and I visited Boone, North Carolina for my sister’s college graduation. It feels like I was just in her position. I’m now trying to figure out what’s next for me.
So until I figure that out, enjoy this video, with even more photos from my year. You didn’t think this was it, right? :)
Photo Essay: Christmas in Sydney
While I’m no longer in Sydney, the city was already getting ready for Christmas. I saw one particular bus decked out inside and out for Christmas, with tinsel lining on the railings and pictures of Santa taped on the windows. It’s a funny place to have Christmas since it’s summer down in the Southern Hemisphere. I’ve seen so many pictures of the Christmas Day Bondi Beach party, but seeing the preparations firsthand were entertaining.
I love how involved the city gets for Christmas, considering how politically correct the United States tries to be. It’s all “happy holidays” back home. Sydney puts up a Christmas tree right outside the New South Wales Parliament in Martin Place.
Even the pubs get dressed up for the holidays. The Australian in the Rocks is a super old pub that has excellent pizzas and a nice selection of beer. I love the garland it has above the outdoor sating.
Three Wise Monkeys Pub on George Street likes to dress up the monkeys for special occasions like the Rugby World Cup finals and now as sneaky Santas.
Here is the aforementioned Christmas tree in Martin Place. This picture was taken while they were still putting it up but since they’ve added lights and there’s always people posing in front of it. I also wish I had gotten pictures of Town Hall lit up, but didn’t get the chance. Oh well. I hope you enjoyed the festive pictures!
Merry Christmas from Caroline in the City.
Photo Essay: Convicts and Spraypaint
Something I found fascinating about Sydney is that there are dozens of islands around it, mostly owned by the state government. Cockatoo Island, the largest of these islands, has had many lives, including stints as a prison for the thousands of convicts sent from England, a jail, an industrial school and a shipyard as late as 1992. I had wanted to visit these islands earlier, but when I heard about the Outpost street art exhibit featuring works by the Banksy, I knew it would be the perfect thing to take Tommy to.
The day started out beautifully, the sun shining on the short ferry ride from Balmain. We wandered around the many exhibits, through what looked like an old war bunker and through a maze of warehouses. There were live demonstrations and lectures, as well as a DJ. It reminded me of Charleston’s Kulture Klash, a night of music and art usually held in a warehouse.
I got hungry immediately after I smelled the food on the island. I was glad to see many choices, namely a cafe with run of the mill burgers, a pizzeria, a dumpling station and a noodle bar. It was overpriced, in my opinion, but that was to be expected for an event like this in a remote location.
The Island Bar was hopping, even when it got cloudy, so it could be a nice place to go for a Sunday session. I bought 2 ciders from one of the food carts and it was $13, so that gives you an idea of how far the prices go up from there.
Everyone really came for the Banksy exhibit, which was actually a collection of artwork with a few pieces by Banksy. There was a line to go upstairs into a warehouse, where you could see his framed pictures. As impressed as I was, I can imagine it’s not quite as good as seeing it “on the street.”
As much as I enjoyed the event, I found there to be a few problems that could have been fixed to make the day perfect. I was glad that once it started raining, event organizers handed out umbrellas since there was no covering to stand under while waiting in line for the ferries. Because of the rain, everyone rushed to line up for ferries, but each one was full and Tommy and I waited for over an hour just to cross the harbor to Balmain. Security was ineffective and they let people jump on ferries while others were still waiting. Water taxis picked up some of the irate passengers, but some of us were left fuming in the rain. While the rain and ferry schedule couldn’t be changed, effective security could be. But overall, it was a great day in a part of Sydney I had never explored.
Getting there
- Two ferries service the island, the Balmain/Woolwich and the Parramatta River services. Both can be accessed from Circular Quay, where you can buy tickets for $5.40 return adult.
- If you have a larger group or don’t want to wait for the ferry, water taxis are also available.
- Entrance to the island is free. There are no ATMs but there is a cafe and bar. You can picnic, but you cannot bring your own barbecues or alcohol.
- If you want to stay overnight, you can rent tents and campsites, as well as naval cottages and luxury houses.
Related Reading
- Outpost Project: the culture of Sydney street art, C’est Christine
- Choosing Street Art Over Graffiti, Bacon is Magic
Touring the Sydney Opera House
In my rainy last week in Sydney, I was getting stir crazy and needed to explore, even if it meant getting wet. I bundled up as best I could and went to Circular Quay to explore a building I had seen nearly every day for the past six months: the Sydney Opera House. Having grown up going to plays at the Fox Theatre, taking classes at Theatre in the Square and performing in my high school drama productions, I feel at home in theaters.
The history is fascinating, especially considering it was almost never built. The Cliffs Notes version of the story is that a competition was held to come up with the design and the one that ended up being chosen had originally been thrown out for being too extreme, but one of the judges voted to reconsider it. It was not inspired by sails, as most people believe, but rather by pieces of an orange, a sphere cut into pieces. The project was originally estimated to take 3 years and $7 million dollars, but actually took 16 years and $102 million dollars.
Needless to say, things got a little tense between Danish designer Jorn Utzon and the Australian government. He was eventually fired from the project, not invited to the opening and never returned to Sydney to see the final product. However, his son did come to Sydney and has been collaborating with the Opera House people to return it to his father’s original designs.
The Opera House complex is actually made of separate wings with two major theaters and three smaller ones. Downstairs in the recently renovated area is the drama theater, the studio and The Playhouse, a combination of a black box theater and a recording facility. They house more modern productions like the ones for the Vivid Sydney festival.
The Opera Theater was designed for every seat to be the “best one in the house,” and no microphones are needed because of the perfected acoustics. It is used year-round in a rotating schedule for opera and ballet, with eight performances per week. It became the first theater in the world to have screens displaying subtitles for operas.
I didn’t get to see the Concert Hall next door because they were getting it ready for that night’s GQ Man of the Year awards, but it has played host to comedian Tim Minchin (of Tim Minchin vs. the Sydney Symphony Orchestra) and upcoming acts include comedian Kathy Griffin and the love of my life, musician Ryan Adams.
You can’t take pictures in any of the theaters because each of the sets are copyrighted, but that forces you to pay attention to every detail of the elaborately built Opera House.
*Some of these pictures were obviously taken on different visits, but I needed some nice pictures of the Opera House, not the depressing rainy ones from the day of my visit.*
Planning Your Visit
- The Essential Tour is $35.00 for adults and $24.50 concession. It is available in German, French, Japanese, Korean, Chinese and of course, English.
- The Backstage Tour is $155.00 and takes you through backstage areas not accessible to the public, including dressing rooms, green rooms and on stage.
3 Ways to See the Bridge
The Sydney Harbour Bridge is one of the most iconic landmarks in the world, second only to the Opera House, and is known affectionately as the Coathanger. It was one of the first things I saw on my train ride to work every day and I grew quite fond of it in the last year. There are a few ways to appreciate the bridge up close, ranging in prices for everyone from backpackers to millionaires.
Option 1: Walk across the Bridge
This is a popular way to see the bridge because it’s good exercise and won’t break the bank. You can take either a train or ferry to Milson’s Point ($5.30 for adult ferry, $3.20 for adult train) or walk both ways. I did this walk after taking the ferry when I first got to Sydney and thought it was a nice way to see the harbor. Be warned, though, that it’s very windy and the six lanes of cars, buses and trains make it hard to hear yourself think. You can access the stairs from the Rocks on Cumberland Street.
- Price: free, plus the option of a train or ferry
Option 2: Walk across the Bridge and up the Pylon Lookout
If you don’t have time for the whole walk but still want to see the city, the Pylon Lookout is the right choice for you. You access it the same way as walking the bridge, but on the first pylon, you walk up the stairs and pay for your ticket. The perk of the Pylon is that you get similar views to the Bridge Climb without the hefty price tag. At the top is a museum of the history of the bridge and a glass panel that tells you the distances from parts of Sydney. The pylons aren’t necessary to holding up the bridge and are only for aesthetics, but the opposite pylon is used for bridge security and is not open to the public.
- Price: $11 or free with the Bridge Climb
Option 3: Do the Bridge Climb
It’s the most famous way to see the bridge, but also the most expensive. I wanted to do it since I first arrived in Sydney, but I couldn’t warrant spending the money until right before I left to go home. I’m afraid of heights and the only time I was nervous was climbing the initial steep ladder, not the actual bridge ascent. A lot of people asked if it was worth the money and I can honestly say that it was. It was a beautiful day and I saw just how amazing the city is.
- Price: Varies depending on time and type of climb, but around $200, which includes a group photo, hat and all climb gear.
Conquering Fears in Cairns
After a long month and a half of traveling completely by bus, I was more than ready to be in Cairns. I was finally traveling solo and had no clue what I was going to do now that I finally reached my destination. I checked into Cairns Beach House, which turned out to be a nightmare of a hostel, but more on that in future posts. The heat in Cairns was smothering, leaving you drenched with either sweat or rain everytime you stepped outside, since it’s called Tropical North Queensland for a reason.
I signed up for scuba diving classes with Cairns Dive Centre, which included two days in the classroom and two days on a liveaboard boat on the Great Barrier Reef. I get panicky thinking about being so far down from the surface, but I knew I couldn’t come this far and not do it. The first two days went well, sitting in the classroom and getting used to all the gear in the pool. I got paired up with my scuba buddy, Jaspal, from England.
A night out with the Ultimate Party pub crawl was included with my accommodation package, so I stupidly decided to take advantage of it the night before going out to the Great Barrier Reef. It’s definitely marketed towards the single-and-ready-to-mingle and bucks/hens night crowd. I hung out with two Danish and one Swiss girl from my hostel, going from bar to bar on a double-decker bus. It’s not so much my scene, but I can’t say I didn’t have fun. I was, however, in major pain the next morning when I left at 6 a.m. to go to the dive boat.
I’ve stayed on boats before, both in Croatia and the Whitsundays, but nothing is quite like a scuba diving boat. People from all over the world are together for one thing: scuba diving. While the early schedule nearly killed me, I’m glad I chose the free upgrade, with the four day class and all food on the dive boat for $500. The day started with a 6 a.m. dive, followed by breakfast, another afternoon dive, lunch, another dive, dinner and a night dive. It’s literally dive, eat, repeat. There is also the option to do a five day course to get your advanced certification, but I just didn’t have time.
By some chance, I got my Open Water Certification. I was definitely worried for a while because I got scolded for my mistakes, but I know how dangerous it can be, especially in somewhere like the Great Barrier Reef. My group celebrated our “graduation” by getting a video taken of us sipping on beer underwater.
I celebrated how far I’ve come, in Australia, up the coast, and in conquering my fears by doing something that terrified me: bungee jumping. I’d seen lots of people do it, but there’s something about being up there, feet strapped in, hanging over the edge and working up the nerve to take the leap. I was joined by a Contiki group from Canada and after watching one girl scream her way down from the 50 meter ledge, I was up next. I screamed the entire way down, including when I was dipped completely into the water, but I’ve never felt such a rush. Immediately after getting on land, I was ready to go again. It was the perfect way to wrap up a trip with such ups and downs. But I wouldn’t trade it for anything.
More Information
- Looking to go to Cairns yourself? These Australia flights can find you a good deal Down Under.
- Ultimate Party Pub Crawl
- $25 for Tuesday nights, $30 for Saturday nights
- Toga parties on the first Tuesday of every month
- Ticket price includes dinner, club entry and vouchers for bars and restaurants in Cairns
- Real deal options include accommodation in Cairns with your pub crawl
- Cairns Dive Centre
- 4 Day Learn to Dive Budget $560
- 4 Day Learn to Dive Liveaboard $660
- AJ Hackett Cairns
- Bungy Jump $140 includes jump, certificate and t-shirt
- A second jump is only $35 and photo/video packages start at $40
*This post contains a sponsored link, but all content is my own.*
Video: Alice Springs to Adelaide
Here is a very long overdue video about my trip from Alice Springs to Adelaide with Groovy Grape. At this rate, the rest of my Australia videos should be up by 2013…
Related Reading:
Tropical Cape Tribulation
My entire knowledge of Cape Tribulation came from a post on Vagabond 3 entitled, “Don’t Panic: How to Survive Cape Tribulation.” I knew it was a tropical rainforest, but past that was ignorant. But a 2 day 1 night visit was included in my Fraser Island and Whitsundays package, so for the hundredth time on this trip, I said, “Why not?”
Just as I knew nothing about Cape Trib, I knew next to nothing about the tour I had signed up for, including what to pack and what we would be doing. Thank God one of my hostel mates clued me into the fact that I had to cook my own food. At 7:45 a.m., we were picked up by the Tropics Explorer guide to make our way to the UNESCO-listed Daintree Rainforest.
We had a quick breakfast in Daintree Village before going on an uneventful river cruise. We didn’t even spot one crocodile! After a walk through the rainforest where the mosquitoes were bloodthirsty, we were dropped at our respective hostels, mine being the infamous PK’s Jungle Village.
After tossing my bag in my dorm room, my new friends and I walked down to the Miller’s Store swimming hole, with mirror-like water away from the saltwater crocodiles and a rope swing. It felt good to cool off in a place you weren’t at risk for a croc bite or jellyfish sting.
We wandered onto the beach but didn’t get in because of the aforementioned stingers, but it was how you picture a deserted island, aside from a few guys playing cricket. I cooked myself a pasta dinner and spent the rest of the evening in the Jungle Bar, taking advantage of happy hour and listening to the rain. As the chef told me, “They call this the rainforest for a reason!”
At lunchtime the next day we were picked up by a new guide to make our way back to Cairns. En route, we bought overpriced ice cream in every flavor (Guinness, sweet potato-ginger and chilli chocolate, just to name a few) and stopped at a zoo where I got to play with kangaroos, emus and saw from afar saltwater crocs and cassowaries. Didn’t want to get too close to them…
Thankful List 2011
This is the first Thanksgiving I’ve ever missed. Instead of rushing from one set of grandparents to the other, stuffing myself silly on turkey, hashbrown casserole and buttery Sister Schubert rolls, I’m having a few beers with my fellow travel geeks at Hart’s Pub in the Rocks in Sydney, Australia. This journey is ending almost exactly how it started. I have been making these thankful lists since I was fifteen and this year I have more to be thankful for than ever.
I obviously have to start with my family. I can’t believe they’ve supported me in my decision to come to Australia, even though there were moments when I thought they would tell me not to go. Thinking back on it, it does sound completely crazy to go to the other side of the world to see a boy I met for a week, but I could not have imagined all of the things I would experience here, boy or not. I’ve talked to someone in my family at least once a week, most times more than that. I’m glad I got to see my mom and sisters in Hawaii in June, but I’m very thankful that I will get to spend time with my dad, my dog Libby, and all my extended family very soon (a week from today!).
It’s been hard to maintain friendships back home from this far away, but it just shows who the true ones are. My former roomie Scotti sent me a Charleston carepackage of all the things I couldn’t get here, starting with grits. I even had my friend Christine come visit, which is a lot to ask someone to do.
And I’ve made even more friends here than I could have imagined. On my second night I went to the then Travel Tribe at Customs House Bar, where I met Brooke, Heather, Lauren, Hannah and all those other Sydneysiders who helped me settle in here.
That same night, I found the place I ended up working for six months. I became close with Flo, Kelsi, Aylin, Michelle, Jana, Sarah and Sarah and all the other girls that worked there at various times, one from each part of the world. I also lived with two lovely Australian girls, Nell and Lauren, who made me feel at home here.
I met lots of amazing people while I was traveling and even if we don’t become lifelong friends, or even if we only hung out for a day, they became part of this narrative, if even for a sentence.
I’m thankful for the writing opportunities I’ve had this year, many through contacts I’ve made here in Sydney, as well as on Twitter.
I’m thankful for the Tommy, who was worth the terrifying feeling of flying to the otherside of the world. He has been my best friend and my boyfriend and my person. I can’t imagine this year without him.
And finally, I’m thankful for all the amazing experiences I’ve had this year. Watching the sun set on Uluru. Climbing the Sydney Harbour Bridge. Bungee jumping over the rainforest in Cairns. Riding a camel in Kings Canyon. Scuba diving in the Great Barrier Reef. Riding in an open door helicopter in Hawaii. Holding a koala on Magnetic Island. Riding a motorcycle in Agnes Water. Never a dull moment.
Thank you for being a part of my year and here’s to even more to be thankful for in 2012.
Related Reading
My Dear Maggie
While many of my fellow travelers found Magnetic Island to be boring (with the exception being those who went to the overrated Full Moon Australia party), I fell in love with “Maggie.” I missed the Full Moon party by a day, but I was glad to dry out my liver after a big Halloween in Townsville and before going to Cairns.
I chose Bungalow Bay Koala Village as my hostel, not only because of my vendetta against Base hostels, but also because this eco-friendly YHA has a built-in wildlife center, most famous for its koalas. I heard good things about this place and held off going to other animal habitats (Port Macquarie Koala Hospital, Lone Pine Koala Sanctuary, Australia Zoo) for this one.
I bought the Koala Express package, which includes ferry transfers, 2 nights accommodation, a $20 bar voucher, park entry and 30 minutes of WiFi for $130.
The island is made up of a number of bays and the hostel is located at the top, on Horseshoe Bay. The best way to get around is by renting a moke or topless car if you’re 21 or older, or scooters if you’re 18 or older.
The Full Moon parties, which I mentioned earlier, are put on the last Friday of every month at Base in Nelly Bay. It brings in international DJs and gives partygoers the chance to dance from 5 pm til 3 am. I think you’re better off going to the real deal in Thailand, but if the idea is to bring more people to Maggie, they definitely succeed.
Backpackers also flock to Maggie for $300 open water scuba diving courses and advanced trips to the SS Yongala, known as Australia’s best dive site. Although the water isn’t as clear as it is further up the coast, it’s a good option if you’re low on cash.
But what brought me to this island, my “magnetic attraction” so to speak, was the koalas, also known as my spirit animal. I got to see lizards, birds, echidnas, and even held a baby saltwater crocodile. But no moment felt as special as when I held that koala. We’re the same in many ways, looking cute and cuddly but we know when to take out the claws. He did try to escape a few times, but I don’t blame him. I would do the same.
Getting there
The Greyhound bus drops off at the ferry and bus terminal in Townsville. From Townsville, take the SeaLink ferry (or Fantasea if you are taking your car), which costs $29 return for adults. From there, you can take the Sunbus in either direction on the island. The bus up to Horseshoe Bay takes about 20 minutes and costs less than $4.
The Secret Life of a Bikie
Bikie (n): A motorcyclist, with connotations of gang affiliation; A biker.
I have a confession to make. I’m terrified of motorcycles. My uncle once offered to give me a ride. I turned it down. My boss here in Sydney offered me a ride after work, since we lived down the street from one another. I took the train instead. I’ve seen so many news reports about fatal crashes that it put me off them.
In between the camping of Fraser Island and the boozing and cruising on the Whitsundays, I stopped for a few days in the sister towns of Agnes Water and 1770, where good ole Captain Cook stopped off for the first time in Queensland.
There’s not a whole lot to see here, except for super cheap surf lessons and scuba diving, but the one thing I knew I had to try was the Scooteroo tours. I had heard rave reviews from friends who had already gone up the coast and decided it was the perfect place to conquer my fear.
I was picked up at my hostel at 2 p.m. by a blonde surfer boy from San Diego. Go figure. Once we arrived at Scooteroo headquarters, we got decked out in leather jackets and helmets with flames and put on temporary tattoos, so we could look like real badasses. They played “Born to Be Wild” to get us in the mood to ride.
After picking my American flag bike, straight out of Easy Rider, we were taken on the test track, where we sorted out all that how to stop and how to go nonsense. I must admit that I wasn’t very good because they kept me on that practice loop for almost an hour before deciding I was ready for the road.
Taking the bikes on the road was much easier because the ground was even. I was even able to relax a bit. We went through a neighborhood with kangaroos everywhere, in every resident’s front yard, chomping away on grass. It was so odd to see so many outside of a zoo. Later on we went to the 1770 Harbor, where we watched the sun set over the boats and chowed down on wedges.
I’m not saying I’m rushing out to buy a Harley, especially since these 50 cc bikes were barely a step up from mopeds, but maybe I won’t turn down rides on motorcycles anymore.
How to Survive a Booze Cruise
After too much time in the great outdoors on Fraser Island, I knew sailing the Whitsundays was more my style. I did a similar booze cruise in Croatia over a year ago, so I figured a two-day cruise would be a piece of cake.
The Whitsundays are known for the insanely blue waters, where swimming, eating and drinking are the entire day’s activities. I joined my travel mates on the New Horizon, mostly because I heard the alternatives were major party boats where you could find some suspicious items in the hot tub.
So let my knowledge be of use to you if you are planning a trip to the Whitsundays or are just spending a few days on a boat.
1. Pick the right boat. Some have a reputation for being party boats. In the Whitsundays, it’s the Atlantic Clipper and Wings, just to name a few. My boat seemed just right because you could party if you wanted, but it wasn’t out of control. The food on all the boats is exactly the same and they stop in the same spots. The only real difference is cabins, which can be separate or one big room like mine was.
2. Dramamine is your best friend. Even if you don’t get motion sickness, it’s better to be prepared. I usually don’t feel ill, but once the boat starts moving in the morning, my stomach is not happy.
3. BYO. There’s no alcohol sold on board, so you have to bring your own and it will be stored in coolers. The tricky thing is that if you pack too much you have some left over. If you don’t bring enough, you drink it all the first night and then have a boring second night. Instead of packing three boxes of goon per person like we did on Fraser Island (That’s five bottles per box. True story.), I only brought one bottle of vodka and mixers. It went fast on the first night, but I still had a bit left for the second night.
4. Stinger Suit. Queensland’s most dangerous creature is not sharks, but those tiny little stingers you can’t see in the water, especially the box jellyfish. Most of the tour operators make you swim and snorkel in stinger suits, essentially wetsuits that cover your arms and legs, to prevent injuries. They’re not a cute look, but can save you lots of pain.
5. Pack Light. Most of the boats won’t let you bring more than a small bag onboard, some without zippers. This is because there’s not much room and zippered bags carry bed bugs. You won’t need much anyways, just swimsuits and a few dry clothes, towels and sunscreen. A hat is also a good idea.
Related Reading
Why I Hated Fraser Island
I really can’t stand when I end up hating something that everyone else loved. It’s like being the only person who didn’t love Titanic. But Fraser Island may have been doomed to disappoint from the start. I already knew that Fraser was the largest sand island in the world, full of dingoes ready to eat your babies. I signed up for this tour with the other people I was traveling with, without doing very much research. So please excuse me, but this is why I am the only person who hated Fraser Island.
The weather: Once we crossed over into Queensland, the weather had been nothing but beautiful. But of course, for this three days worth, it was overcast, cold and rainy. And what’s worse than camping? Camping in the rain. In a place known for its beaches. While everyone has great pictures of the white sand and blue water of Lake Mackenzie, mine are grayish and dark blue.
The camping: You should know by now that I’m not very outdoorsy. Sure, I survived a trip to the Outback where I slept on the ground, but that was different. This time, I was covered in sand, awake all night to the rustling of the tent, which I mistook for dingoes sniffing at me, and the goon-fueled rants of my fellow campers. It’s next to impossible to get a good night’s sleep under these conditions. And someone failed to mention that when you go to the bathroom in the woods, you have to, ahem, bury it. And then there were the sand flies, who like to bite every surface of bare skin. Not to mention that when you’re using camp stoves on the beach, you get sand in your food. Not tasty.
The drama: I got to Rainbow Beach already with a chip on my shoulder. There was undeniable tension with my travel mates, but we all chose to ignore it, if only for the sake of this few weeks of tours we had left. Fraser Island is where it all exploded. Without getting into it too much, I knew I should have gone my own way weeks earlier but I didn’t. Maybe I’m not as good of a solo traveler as I thought I was. I got too comfortable.
So sue me. I didn’t love Fraser Island. I was overjoyed to get back into a real bed, wash all the sand out of my clothes and hair and enjoy a full night’s sleep. Maybe I will go back one day and stay at one of the hotels instead. And by then I should be able to drive manual transmission so I can see what all the fuss is about. Until then, I will not really remember Fraser fondly.
Settling Into Brisbane
Up until I got to Brisbane, I only stayed in each stop for a maximum of 3 days. I knew I was ready to unpack for a bit and I had a lot of blogging to catch up on.
Since I didn’t book ahead of time, I frantically dialed every hostel number until settled on a place called Banana Benders, up the hill from the Central Station. I wasn’t sure what to expect from this bright yellow house with a strip club and a church as neighbors, but I was pleasantly surprised. It had a deck overlooking all of the hills around Brisbane, the perfect spot to cultivate my inner digital nomad.
I didn’t see many of the “sights” of Brisbane, including a few art museums, the Australia Zoo and the Lone Pine Koala Sanctuary, but I knew I couldn’t miss the XXXX Brewery. I’ve been to quite a few and couldn’t miss the chance to cross an item off my Life List.
I had never sampled the famous XXXX Gold because it’s “Queensland’s beer,” but was ready to see what all the fuss was about. We had to wear fluorescent vests and safety goggles since we go through the actual bottling plant. If you’ve been on a brewery tour before, the beer-making process may not interest you, but what I took away from the tour is how the XXXX brand was created. Two rivaling breweries created one of Australia’s most well-known beers.
The tour ended with the best part, four free samples. I picked the XXXX Summer Bright Ale, a light “girly” beer, since the Ale House is the only place with it on tap. Next was the legendary XXXX Gold, followed by James Squire Pale Ale and XXXX Bitter. For $25, it’s one of my favorite things I did in Brisbane.
The rest of the week was spent living like a local, having barbecues and swimming in the lagoon. It’s a beautiful city that I wish I’d visited sooner.
Photo Friday: Surfers Paradise, QLD
I know it’s been a while since I’ve done a legit post, but you’re going to have to wait a little longer. I am almost completely up the coast and it feels like I’m running a marathon. I’m pretty backlogged on posts and these pictures are from almost a month ago, but better late than never.
On an especially rainy day in Surfers Paradise (sure didn’t feel like paradise to me), my traveling mates and I went to the Skypoint, formerly Q1, Tower, the tallest building in the Australia and the third tallest residential building. People have paid up to $9 million for an apartment in this building.
It takes you to the 77th floor in 43 seconds, which overlooks the entire Gold Coast and has a bar and restaurant. After checking out the views, I treated myself to a glass of champagne. I have to feel classy every once and awhile, even if I am a dirty backpacker.
I was told you could see whales from the tower but I couldn’t see anyone or anything in the water, not even the famous surfers. It was interesting to see how developed the area has become, with more skyscrapers constantly being built. It reminded me a bit of Miami, except with the outrageous party vibe you could find on the Jersey Shore or in Panama City, Florida.
It costs $21 to go up into the tower, which seems a little ridiculous to ride an elevator, but if it’s raining in paradise, it’s not a bad way to spend the day. They also take your picture, but that’s another $20. I recommend going up just for the views and a drink before you head to the beach.
The Australian Adventure: Nine Months In
What’s changed?
- I left my job at the hotel.
- I moved out of my apartment.
- I took a tour of Uluru with Groovy Grape Getaways.
- I left for my East Coast adventure and am halfway to Cairns as we speak.
Nine months by the numbers
Books read: 9
- The Help, Kathryn Stockett
- The Best of UnBrave Girl, Sally L. Thelen
- Everyone Worth Knowing, Lauren Weisberger
- No, I Don’t Want to Join a Book Club, Virginia Ironside
- The Private Lives of Pippa Lee, Rebecca Miller
- Last Night at Chateau Marmont, Lauren Weisberger
- The Great Gatsby, F. Scott Fitzgerald
- Rachel’s Holiday, Marian Keyes
- The Beach, Alex Garland
Beers tasted: 5
- XXXX Summer
- Monteith’s Pear
- XXXX Gold
- XXXX Bitter
- James Squire Pale Ale
Items gained: Too many to count.
Items lost: Too many to count, especially since everything I own has to fit in 2 bags to send home!
Items crossed off Life List:
- #22: Ride a camel, completed at Kings Creek Station, Northern Territory
- #27: Tour 5 breweries, completed at XXXX Brewery, Brisbane, Queensland
- #70: Learn to surf, completed in Coffs Harbour, New South Wales
States/territories visited: 2
- Northern Territory
- Queensland
Budget
As you may have noticed, I’ve slacked off with keeping up with my budget.
Spending
- January: $369.12
- February: $1,730.70
- March: $1,261.26
- April: $1,893.24
- May: $2,108.56
- June: $1,342.41
- July: $1,419.03
- August: $1,590.73
- September: $1,637.11
Earning
- March: $1,488.87
- April: $1,509.49
- May: $2,052.92
- June: $740.04
- July: $1,895.01
- August: $1,753.20
What’s next?
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Being a Hippie in Byron Bay
I called my sister in a panic. Only she would know what to do. “Sammi,” I asked frantically, “What do I talk to hippies about? I need conversation starters.”
I had unknowingly booked three nights at Byron Bay’s hippie haven known as the Arts Factory. Formerly a slaughterhouse, this hostel/restaurant/bar/brewery/movie theater complex is now crawling with harem pants, anklets, dreadlocks, guitars and funny-tasting cookies.
A short drive past the main drag, the first word I thought of to describe this place was “interesting.” There are tents, teepees and standard dorms rooms, but don’t even think about using incense, hair straighteners or smoking inside them. You’ll get slapped with a fine sooner than you can say “peace, love and happiness.”
I didn’t feel earthy enough for a bush walk, didgeridoo lesson or reiki massage, but they were available. After a painful night dancing on tables at the infamous Cheeky Monkey’s, my companions and I went on a Grasshoppers day tour of Nimbin, known as the Amsterdam of Australia.
Much like Woodstock, Nimbin’s legacy dates back to the Aquarius Festival during the Vietnam War. Some festivalgoers never left and will be the first to ask, “Do you smoke? Do you want cookies?” Our authority-hating South African guide advised that you only need half a cookie to feel the effects.
This is the part of the post where I mention that marijuana is illegal in Australia, even in Nimbin, and that I admit to no wrongdoing. But if I had tasted one of these confections, which of course I did not, I would say that while tasty, I felt no effects. Three cookies should cost $15 if you are so inclined.
There’s not much to the town, but the music played on the decked-out tour bus and the cookie effects can make even the most square person feel like a hippie.
Home Sweet Ozzie Pozzie
I’m not even sure why I decided to stop in Port Macquarie. I had just spent three days in tiny Newcastle, so I wanted something bigger, but wasn’t ready to take the nearly ten hour bus to Byron Bay. I just booked a few nights there, just in case I didn’t like it. Unfortunately, the bus didn’t get to Port Mac until 1 a.m. and I would have to walk to the hostel and find my key in the middle of the night. I was not thrilled by this. Thankfully, the owner of Ozzie Pozzie Backpackers, Richard, told two other girls on the same bus to look out for me and we could walk together. “Are you Caroline?” I heard a Scottish accent ask me. I met Sam and Sarah, two girls from St. Andrews (home to golf and formerly Wills & Kate).
We stumbled into our room in the middle of the night and weren’t sure what to think. When I saw the hostel in daylight, I was already in love. It has this laid-back beach vibe that reminded me of the houses we used to rent on the Alabama and Florida coasts, with names like “Sea Breeze” and “Fantasea.” The free internet access and breakfast only added to the appeal.
I like my hostels quirky and Ozzie Pozzie is just that. I’m not even sure what made me love it there so much. Maybe because of the staff, Richard, Phil, Simon and Brad. They planned trips to cellar doors and pizza nights. Maybe because of the fellow guests who made up Team Scotland. Maybe even because of a few particularly fuzzy goon nights.
When Phil asked what I was going to write about Ozzie Pozzie, I said I would call it an insane asylum, which it is. But because I’ve been so spoilt by Ozzie Pozzie, I haven’t loved any of the hostels I’ve stayed in since. Their brochure says, “Warning: You may never want to leave.” And it’s so true.
*I received one free night at Ozzie Pozzie but I obviously loved it, which is why I paid for two additional nights. My opinions are entirely my own.*
Photo Essay: Newcastle
My first stop on my East Coast Adventure around Australia was to Newcastle, a seaside town only two hours from Sydney. It was a good first stop because it eased me into the trip and if anything happened I could hop on a train and be back in the city in a matter of hours.
I stayed at the Newcastle YHA because there are basically two or three hostel options and this one was a beautiful old building right by the bus station. Many of the buildings in this city have remained unchanged for the last 200 years and even back to the days when Newcastle housed the colony’s worst convicts.
I must admit that there’s not a whole lot to do in Newcastle, but that can be a good thing. It’s not about checking all the items off your list, but more about having a nice quiet breakfast at a cafe, wandering around town, finding a used bookstore (!) and strolling down to the beach.
I only have two “must-dos” for Newcastle and they are the Bogey Hole, a rock pool carved out by convicts, and walking out to Nobby’s. The lighthouse at Nobby’s is only open on two Sundays per month, but walking out to the very end gives you beautiful views of the coast. You may even spot a dolphin pod, as I did while watching the waves crash against the Bogey Hole.
Even if you aren’t traveling up the whole coast like me, Newcastle makes a great day trip from the hustle and bustle of metropolitan Sydney.
