The Dark Side of Los Angeles

Long before Los Angeles was known for hard-partying celebrities, surreal urban sprawl and big-budget blockbusters, there was film noir. The genre changed Hollywood and escalated the writing career of one novelist James M. Cain. The film versions of his books made stars out of Lana Turner and Joan Crawford.

I must admit that when I signed up for Esotouric’s “Birth of Noir: James M. Cain’s Southern California Nightmare” tour, I hadn’t done my research, having neither seen the movies or read the books. But even so, I saw parts of Los Angeles I never would have discovered otherwise.

We met at Philippe: The Original, home of the french dip, located in the midst of Mexican and Chinese neighborhoods. The group was mostly 30 and older and surprisingly mostly local. Many had gone on previous tours and wanted to experience more of their city. We were greeted by the knowledgeable guides Richard, Kim, and Joan, before boarding the bus.

We visited the filming locations from Mildred Pierce, Double Indemnity and The Postman Always Rings Twice, while scenes were shown on the television screens to get the full experience. Stops included the Glendale train station, Forest Lawn Cemetery, and Skid Row dive bar the King Eddy Saloon, where “Jamie,” as Richard affectionately called him, once spent time. I definitely recommend watching at least one of the films and bringing some snacks for the bus.

Esotouric also offers the award-winning The Real Black Dahlia tour, as well as tours through Chinatown and Pasadena. The Black Dahlia tour is the most popular, so be sure to book your tickets in advance.

**Although Esotouric gave me this tour for free, I was under no obligation to write this review. These opinions, as always, are entirely my own.**