Return to Montreal

It had been six years since I wandered the Europeanesque streets of Montreal. When I decided to attend the Travel Blog Exchange conference in Toronto, I knew I wanted to retourner à Montréal but to do it differently this time around.

Sure, I had a great time visiting during college fall break with my friend Scotti, walking up to Mont Royal with a baguette and beer, hopping on the Metro to the art museum and gorging ourselves at Eggspectations. But there’s so much more to the Québécoise city than I got to see last time and so much that I didn’t understand.

For starters, Montreal is not like France just because they speak French. If anything, it draws from a plethora of European backgrounds, including the Portuguese, British and yes, even the French. They have a cafe culture that rivals that of Sydney, where you stay for coffee, not take it to go. They do the double kiss that I’m always unprepared for and enjoy cinq et sept, which is their version of happy hour. And the food. Oh, the food.

This was, though, the trip that almost didn’t happen. I had booked my Megabus for 9 am following the last day of TBEX so I would arrive in the late afternoon and have plenty of time to explore. I guess a week of no sleep finally caught up with me because I woke up at 8:45 in a panic.

I scrambled downstairs at Planet Traveler, called Megabus and booked myself another $40 ticket (ouch) for the 10 am and two hour longer bus. Even when I couldn’t find my ticket on my phone, the driver told me to go ahead and get on.

Thankfully, I was staying at M Montreal, a luxury hostel off Rue Saint-Catherine, a part of the Gay Village. I had time to wander through the neighborhood before getting a private food tour the following day from local guide Ruby Roy. She gave me an intro to the city and let me wander Basilica Notre Dame again before we made our first stop.

Schwartz’s Deli may be Montreal’s answer to legendary counter palaces like Katz’s Delicatessen in New York, but the meat is not pastrami. I’m tempted to say that it’s better. The meat, available in both lean or more fatty slices, is covered in a secret concoction of spices and smoked for 10 days. The preservative-free smoked meat is piled high, creating the city’s most iconic sandwich. (P.S. If you like delis, check out my Counter Culture Wanderlist over on AFAR.com).

Next up was La Banquise for poutine, a dish often impersonated but rarely perfected. La Banquise does just that, with the hand-cut fries, thin brown gravy and “squeaky” cheese curds that sound like chewing a balloon, but in a good way. It’s entirely possible that I ate every last bite.

I’ve had my fair share of bagels in my life, but I had never, until my trip, had the first bagel to go to space. Fairmount Bagel is, as with the delis, not comparable to those in New York. The bagels have the same crunch crust and doughy center, but are cooked in honey water, making them sweeter. They are also much smaller, meaning not American mega portions. They’re stretched, rolled, covered in sesame seeds and baked to perfection.

Jean Talon Market was the final stop of the morning, bringing together local farmers and vendors. Essentially anything you’re looking for can be found here, from ice wine to vegetables. Look out for icons denoting what comes from the Montreal area, from the province of Quebec and from elsewhere in Canada.

If you’re looking to eat well, you can’t do much better than Montreal. I didn’t have a bad meal the entire trip, which is saying something. It’s difficult to watch your weight with so much deliciousness abound, but if you’re concerned, walk the 194.1 meters to the top of Mont Royal or rent a Bixi bike. Just as long as you go.

Further Reading

• 7 Places to Eat in Montreal, Matador Network– For the record, I made it to two of these places. That just means a third trip is in order. 
• Things to Know Before Coming to Montreal, Candice Does the World– My friend Candice lived there for a stint and pointed out the important stuff like bringing your own booze and the double cheek kiss.
• A Taste of History, Hecktic Travels– Watch their video. Yummmm.

Special thanks to M Montreal Hostel for putting me up for three nights and to Tourism Montreal, who were able to arrange a tour with Ruby at the very last minute for me. Merci boucoup!