Into the Deep

A man chases a green flash, bounding through the forest. He doesn’t let the iguana out of his sight and doesn’t want to miss the chance for a nice dinner, as it is a common source of protein in this part of Mexico. It slithers through the leaves quickly, but the man won’t be outsmarted by the overgrown lizard.

Just as he thought he’d closed in on the creature, it climbed into a hole in the ground. But he’d found something much better than an iguana. He’d discovered a cenote, an underground cave full of lakes and rivers.

Credit: Ismael Alonso

Seven years later, I’ve found myself in this exact cenote. These types of caves are found all over Quintana Roo and were historically sites of Mayan rituals and sacrifices. You can go swimming and diving inside of them and nine of the world’s deepest caves are in Mexico.

Some are run by the government and are local tourist attractions, while others are on private property. We hopped on the ferry from Cozumel to Playa del Carmen and went to the cave at Rio Secreto as an excursion from our Carnival cruise.

The site has some 7.5 miles of cave, whose water levels change regularly. Our guide, Hector, told us that since the rains had finally stopped, he could take us into a cavern usually untouched by tourists. We sloshed our water shoes, wetsuits, and lifejackets through the darkness and calcium rich waters. Stalactites and roots reached the depths seeking moisture. He led us to one point where the water reached our necks and the top of the cave grazed our helmets.

After our nearly two hours underground, we emerged into the light, where we showered, changed clothes and sat down for a shot of local liqueur and a delicious Mexican buffet. I would highly recommend this experience for anyone in the area. 

This tour certainly isn’t for those afraid of the dark or with claustrophobia, as it’s certainly fear inducing, but the guides are all experts who keep you feeling at ease. The company does its best to preserve the integrity of the natural site, so support this local tour operator.

For More Information

Rio Secreto operates tours daily and include transportation for cruise passengers, gear, lockers and lunch. From Cozumel, you can take the ferry for 180 pesos and from Cancun, take the bus for 39 pesos to Playa del Carmen. The tour costs $99 with transportation and $69 without. Cameras are not allowed inside the cave, but a photographer goes with you and you can purchase the photos for $25 per photo or $70 for all photos.[