Wild and Weird Darwin

Bats gliding from tree to tree in the magic hour before darkness. A strong Aboriginal presence, from the galleries selling their famous pointillated artwork to the people escaping the heat under the Banyan tree. World War II history as Australia’s Pearl Harbor.

Sunsets coating the tropical northern sky like grenadine. Gateway to the national parks. Backpackers and locals mingling over jugs of beer. Tradies, in their signature fluorescent yellow shirts, the first ones up every morning.

Lonely Planet named Darwin, Australia a place to visit in 2012. But after a few hours in the town named for the famed naturalist, all I could think was, “What the hell do people do around here?” In their defense, we arrived both too early and too late to appreciate the city at its best, as we were on the tail end of the wet season.

John Butler Trio had played a concert the day before we arrived and the Mindil Beach Markets and Deckchair Cinema wouldn’t begin for two more weeks, when the weather would become less unpredictable.

Melaleuca on Mitchell was our base for the two days leading up to our Kakadu tour and is an undeniable party hostel. Well located near the bars, restaurants, travel agencies and grocery stores, Melaleuca is on par with the other budget accommodation nearby.

You won’t find the amenities of cities like Sydney and Melbourne, namely reliable high speed Internet and storage lockers, since Darwin doesn’t yet have the flash packer demand. It’s a lot more laid back and becomes home to many long term locals and travelers.

The rooms were clean and the staff were helpful if that’s all you require, but the kitchen was too dirty for my tastes. All of the soap dispensers were moldy, meaning none of the pots and pans were clean. It’s easy enough to eat at one of the nearby restaurants, though, and I recommend Ducks Nuts and Cafe Uno.

Darwin feels like a cocktail of many different places. It’s one shot of the untamed north mindset of Alaska and certainly the male-dominated demographics. Another part is Hawaii for its tropical landscape. Top it up with pure Northern Territory, as it feels like a completely different Australia from the rest.

Whether or not you’re venturing out to Kakadu, Litchfield or Arhemland or flying onwards to Asia, Darwin is best experienced just as the sun is setting, when the birds and bats dot the sky, with a cold drink in hand.

Perfect Day in Darwin

Brunch at Ducks Nuts

An afternoon spent using WiFi or reading up on the Territory at Northern Territory Parliament and Library

Bike ride to Mindil Beach

Sunset walk along the Esplanade

Dinner at the Waterfront Precinct

Discounted jugs of beer at Monsoons

I received two nights hosted by Melaleuca on Mitchell through an ongoing partnership with Hostelworld. All opinions are my own. For a quieter night in Darwin, try Dingo Moon Lodge.