A week ago marked my third trip to Mississippi in the past 12 months. As I sat down with my cousin at High Point Coffee, she asked me what others probably would want to know: “Why?” She’s a student at the University of Mississippi, commonly known as “Ole Miss,” in Oxford and didn’t know what would bring someone who wasn’t a student or parent to the rural town less than two hours from Memphis. But I take pleasure in showing people what there is to see in random towns in the South. I’ve even built a business around it.
I was joining a press trip with some of my favorite people to learn more about the culinary scene in Oxford. I knew Athens, Georgia had a similar reputation for having award-winning restaurants in a college town so I was excited to see what this place had to offer.
I flew into Memphis and we drove from there before arriving at Graduate Oxford, the city’s newest hotel. The boutique chain exists only in college towns and each have decor that includes aspect of their destinations. For example, this location has red and blue chairs and art with a map of The Grove. They also have two in-house restaurants and a rooftop bar.
After meeting Chef John Currence at The Lamar Lounge and discussing chefs and the age of Twitter, an unforgettable meal at City Grocery, and a nightcap at The Coop, our group settled into our rooms for the night. The next morning it was time to hop aboard the double decker bus, a carryover from the town’s English namesake.
It inspired a yearly arts festival. We were shown the sights around town, including historic homes like Rowan Oak, where writer William Faulkner lived his years out, and the campus of the University of Mississippi.
Oxford has a long history, some good and some bad, so it’s important to get the background. The double decker bus tours run every Friday on game weekends from the Visit Oxford MS Visitor’s Center.
Hop off in the square to peruse the shops, especially Square Books, the region’s most beloved bookstore that now has two additional shops on the square for their inventory. We hit up Ajax Diner, which serves comfort food plate lunches and features toothpicks over the ceiling. I indulged in the chicken and dumplings and rice and gravy in the name of research (of course).
While at Rowan Oak, I wondered about where Faulkner was buried and a quick Google search revealed that it was a short walk from my hotel. We paid our honors by picking up a bottle of Jack Daniels at the Safari Liquor Store and walked to North 16th Street to see “Bill.”
The familiar taste of Tennessee “sippin’ whiskey” entered my mouth as I swigged from the plastic bottle, pouring out a splash at the foot of his headstone and leaving the remainder under his name. After that necessary stop, I met my cousin for a quick coffee before going to Snackbar, another Currence establishment that was one of the highlights of the trip.
Bellies still full from the night before, we visited the one place everyone told me to go: Big Bad Breakfast. Yet another Currence restaurant (are you seeing a trend?), BBB is a breakfast staple, as the diner-style establishment is full of coeds and locals by 9 am for the skillets.
It was fitting that our next stop of the day was the headquarters of the Southern Foodways Alliance where we met its founder John T. Edge. I fangirled out, as I used his books as research in college. It all came full circle when we visited Woodson Ridge Farms, a farm that supplies local and regional restaurants with produce and also has a CSA program. Chef Elizabeth Heiskell creates delicious dishes from what she grows in her fields.
A highlight of our final night was a live broadcast of Thacker Mountain Radio Hour, a beloved public radio show that incorporates music and literature, filmed at Off Square Books. Dinner was a basic affair at Taylor Grocery, a place known for catfish that people drive across counties for.
The main dish is better than imagined and I even left a piece of graffiti as others have for generations. The night ended at The Library, a sports bar frequented by students. There’s so much more I’d love to do in Oxford, a college town with award-winning restaurants. This is just one of the places in Mississippi that will surprise you!
Have you ever been to Oxford, Mississippi?
My visit to Oxford, Mississippi was organized by Visit Oxford and Laurie Rowe Communications.
Nice post. I was in Oxford for a weekend a number of years ago, but I was busy working so I didn’t have the opportunity to check out everything you did – something for another trip. I remember it as quite pleasant, though. Having lived in Tallahassee for 6 years, I often visited the types of places that you cover and found them fascinating – rich in local color.
I fell in love with Oxford after reading about it in the Magazine known as Garden and Gun…my trip was amazing….you did not mention shopping at Neilsons …the oldest dept store in the south.Oxford is a charming city and I am planning my return trip this summer.
@Lisa, I did look into Neilsons but didn’t spend enough time in there. Definitely next time!
Wonderful trip, hope to read more of your travels