Generations of travelers from far and wide have made their way to the northwestern corner of Wyoming for over 100 years. Perhaps the most well known of our National Parks System, Yellowstone and Grand Tetons national parks are only a few hours apart, making them easily bundled together into one trip.
It’s the run-ins with bison, the smells and spray of Old Faithful, the snow-topped peaks of the Tetons, that make them favorites of visitors. Most parts of both parks open in early May, with a few roads and amenities remaining closed until Memorial Day. This is when the most crowds arrive, but the parks stay open until September and October. You can also visit during the winter, but it is more difficult to do so.
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Getting There
This corner of the country is surprisingly well-connected, but you will still have to do a bit of driving. The closest airports to Yellowstone are Cody (Yellowstone Regional Airport) and West Yellowstone, but both are small and not as well serviced as the larger cities.
Jackson Hole has its own airport as well but does not have as many flights from major destinations. If you’re short on time, consider flying to these smaller airports, but if you want to cut costs, fly into major airports and drive. We drove from Denver to Jackson in one day, at about 8 hours, because it was $100-200 cheaper to do so and allowed us to see places along the way. Salt Lake City, Bozeman, and Idaho Falls are good alternatives.
It’s very difficult to get around this part of the country without a vehicle. This was one of the highest costs we had to consider for our trip. I looked at just about every option, including RVs and campervans, but eventually decided just to rent a basic car from Denver so that we’d have flexibility in getting around.
The Ford Fiesta we rented through Hertz was the perfect size for our needs and had plenty of power to get up the mountain roads. The large trunk was also ideal for storing our backpacks and gear so we didn’t have to unpack everything at every single campsite. We didn’t need an SUV or four-wheel-drive, despite the snow in some places.
Before deciding how you’ll get around, first determine where you’ll be flying into and your route. How many days will you spend in each park? Will you be camping or staying in lodges and hotels? You certainly don’t need a large RV if you’ll be staying at hotels.
You will see lots of RVs within the parks but think about parking for them and if you’re not used to driving one, I don’t recommend it. There are also campgrounds that are not available to RVs or don’t allow you to turn your generator on. Campervans are also plentiful, which you can rent in the major cities.
It’s a good alternative to RVs but gives you more comfort than a standard rental car. I found the best rate for our rental car as a AAA member, which ended up being only $250 for two full weeks. Instead of picking the car up at the airport, we saved money by taking an Uber into the city and picking it up there.
Where to Stay
Depending on when you’re visiting the parks, I highly recommend booking your accommodation in advance. The lodges, like Old Faithful Inn, can be booked many months in advance, so don’t expect to just show up and get a room. The only places we booked in advance were a hotel for our first night in the Tetons, mainly because we wanted to crash after a long travel day, and the campground in Yellowstone.
We later found out that it was fully booked, so this was a necessary precaution. Keep in mind that we visited in late May, a few weeks before the season officially started, so during peak season it’s even more full.
There are a number of accommodation options in both parks, but most people try to stay in the parks. Camping is recommended, as you’ll get the full experience and never know what wildlife you might see. You also are closer to many of the landmarks within the parks.
For example, at Yellowstone, we stayed at Madison Campground, which was closest to the West Entrance and Old Faithful. In Grand Tetons, we stayed at Gros Ventre Campground Road, set right in between the park and downtown Jackson.
Each campground has different amenities, but most have at the very least a fire ring and access to the bathhouse, which has sinks and toilets. There are also camp sinks and a place to buy firewood. Some campsites cater specifically to RVs while others are mixed. Backcountry camping is available seasonally.
Other options for camping include nearby state parks, national forests, and KOA campgrounds, which are often cheaper and not as quickly filled as the ones inside the national parks. Buffalo Bill State Park is near Yellowstone in Cody and offers a number of tent and RV sites. Bridger-Teton National Forest has cabins for rent as well as campgrounds and backcountry camping.
Shoshone National Forest is next to Bridger-Teton and the same amenities. Kampgrounds of America (KOA) has campgrounds all over the region, including one in Jackson/Grand Tetons (Jackson Hole / Snake River KOA), two in West Yellowstone (Yellowstone Park / West Entrance KOA), and one in Cody (Cody KOA Holiday).
Wyoming is also a state that allows BLM, or Bureau of Land Management, camping for free. This means that certain spaces have been designated as first come, first serve sites, but don’t feature the same amenities like water stations or flush toilets. You can see which places you can camp for free on their website.
Apart from camping, both of these parks are well serviced with standard accommodations that have a large range in price. At Grand Tetons, there’s Village Center Inn (The Hostel) in Teton Village and in Yellowstone, there’s The Historic Madison Hotel in West Yellowstone, where my sister stayed on her first trip.
To the north in Montana is North Yellowstone Lodge & Hostel. These places are ideal for solo travelers who might not want to camp alone or who just want to meet other travelers.
Each park also has their own accommodations. In Grand Tetons, you’ll find cabins for rent at Colter Bay Village and Dornan’s, both of which have camping and restaurants. Headwaters Lodge & Cabins at Flagg Ranch is between Tetons and Yellowstone with camping and cabins. Additional lodge options include Jackson Lake Lodge, Jenny Lake Lodge, and Signal Mountain Lodge.
In Yellowstone, Old Faithful Inn and Mammoth Hot Springs Hotel are the most popular choices for lodging, but there are many more to choose from. Options include standard hotel rooms, suites, and cabins with rates ranging from $150 to $500 per night.
The main benefit to staying in these properties is access to amenities like dining and shops as well as proximity to the park. For example, if you’re staying in Old Faithful Inn, you can be the first to the geyser when it goes off.
Dude ranches are also an option for a unique experience, including Triangle X Ranch and Heart 6 Ranch near the Tetons and Crossed Sabres Ranch near Yellowstone.
Each park also has offsite accommodations beyond hostels and campgrounds. In Jackson Hole, there is a hotel for just about every budget, including Four Seasons Jackson Hole and The Lodge at Jackson Hole. In West Yellowstone, there are hotels from chains like the Holiday Inn West Yellowstone. Similar properties can be found outside the major entrances.
Where to Eat
Dining options aren’t as commonplace inside the parks as you might be used to seeing in other destinations, so plan your day accordingly. I found it easiest to pick our sights for the day, whether that be Old Faithful or Grand Prismatic, and then check the map for the closest food option so that we weren’t in a hangry panic come mealtime.
Within Grand Tetons, we dined only at Dornan’s in Moose and in Yellowstone, we had breakfast at Old Faithful Inn Dining Room, had a quick lunch at the cafe at Old Faithful, and bought snacks at the shops at Fishing Bridge. At Old Faithful Inn, you’ll want to make reservations for dinner, but breakfast is first come, first served.
I wasn’t overly impressed with my breakfast, but I’ll let you decide for yourself. Our cheapest park meals were muffins and tea from the coffee shop in Old Faithful Inn and beer and microwave ramen from the Fishing Bridge shop. Since both parks are run by authorized concessioners, the prices are steep for what you get.
Both parks have towns with their own dining options. Jackson Hole has perhaps the best restaurants in Wyoming, let alone within the Grand Tetons. Among our favorites were Persephone Bakery and Pearl Street Bagels. For more on dining options in Jackson, see my guide. Because of our proximity to West Yellowstone, we ate dinners there at Las Palmitas, a bus-turned-restaurant, and THE BUFFALO BAR, a bar and grill serving surprisingly good food.
If you’re camping, you can cook your own meals, but since we were flying in from Denver, we didn’t want to have to worry about transporting the stove, fuel, and cooking supplies in our backpacks. If you are doing this, however, I recommend purchasing your groceries and other essentials at the K-Mart in Jackson Hole or another nearby place before you get into the park. Expect to pay double for the same products at the shops in the parks.
How to See the Parks
If you plan on seeing two parks, it’s worthwhile to purchase the annual pass. Standard passes cost $80 and grant admission for your car into the parks as well as individual entry into national historic sites and recreation sites. Active military members, disabled Americans, and 4th-grade students get free passes while senior citizens can get a $10 lifetime pass.
Every day, you should grab a newspaper for the park, which will tell you what roads are closed and any other relevant information you might need. They also have maps of the parks with icons about gas stations, stores, visitor’s centers and more. This will help you plan your day.
Both parks are laid out in a way that allows you to follow one or two routes in a big loop. I recommend going to see the big sites at off-peak times when they won’t be full of tour buses. For example, Old Faithful goes off many times during the day so check the schedule at the visitor’s center. Late morning to late afternoon are the most crowded times. And at Mormon Row in the Tetons, sunset and sunrise are crowded with photographers.
If you’re looking for good introductory hikes, check out the maps, which define difficulty. Seek out websites like Trails.com and AllTrails for advice and information. As a newbie hiker, my sister chose the Taggart and Bradley Lakes loop in the Grand Tetons, which features moderate changes in elevation and views of wildlife.
This is where I spotted a moose! We also stopped by the warm springs in Kelly upon the recommendation of an Instagram friend. We didn’t do as many hikes in Yellowstone but did the entire loop at Old Faithful and the Grand Canyon of Yellowstone.
Another option to consider is if you want to see the parks on your own or with a tour operator. Companies like Grand Teton Tours and Eco Tour Adventures out of Jackson run tours of both parks that last all day. A number of operators run in Yellowstone, but the most unique is in historic vehicles. Tour operators like Trek America, Contiki, and Grand Circle all makes stops here on larger, regional tours.
Environmental Practices
I mentioned a number of the best practices for visiting the national parks in this post, but to sum it up, treat the parks with respect. Recycle your maps when you’re done with them. Keep your distance from wildlife and only pull over in approved areas. Never stop your car in the middle of the road to take a picture unless you’re allowing an animal to cross. Bring water bottles to refill rather than buying plastic and if you’re camping, follow the leave no trace guidelines.
Other Things to Note
Even in the summer, prepare for any weather. I woke up to ice on the tent in both parks and wore every layer I brought, including gloves, hats, and scarves at night. Weather and wildlife sightings can mean closures of roads and paths, so be prepared with a backup plan. Also, have a backup campsite if you didn’t book in advance.
None of the campsites that we stayed at in the parks had showers so we didn’t use them at all at Grand Tetons and went to Fishing Bridge in Yellowstone. Showers cost $4 and include towels and soap. This is also where they have laundry facilities.
Keep in mind that there are activities beyond the parks if you have kids or need a break from nature. In West Yellowstone, there’s an IMAX theater, ropes course, and wildlife center. In Jackson, there are a few museums and activities.
What to Pack for the National Parks
When it comes to what to pack, layers are key. I don’t have outdoorsy clothing but found that leggings were appropriate. Also keep in mind that you can rent gear when you get there. All of the extra items, like the tent, were packed in my sister’s backpack. Here are a few things I packed:
- toiletries in a bag easy to take to the bathhouse
- slip on shoes for getting in and out of the tent
- headlamp
- water bottles
- borrowed sleeping bag
- sleeping pad
- athletic shoes
- waterproof jacket
- ExOfficio jacket
- first-aid kit
- mosquito wipes
- wet wipes
- Turkish towel
- clothesline and washing materials
If that isn’t inspiration enough, relax and watch this 10-minute video of my favorite moments from our trip!
I visited Yellowstone a number of years ago and particularly loved seeing the paint pots that you picture in the top photo. The only negative that I remember about it was that there were a number of buses of very aggressive Asian tourists. I left the area sooner than I wanted as I had a real fear of possibly being pushed in by the crowd. The next day I read that someone from their group had fallen in. So just a cautionary note – the paint pots and geysers can be dangerous. People have and do die in the park…
Sorry your breakfast was less than stellar at the Old Faithful lodge. I ate there, too, but don’t recall what I had. However, I love the old park buildings in our national parks. Wonderful architecture – at least a step inside should be on everyone’s itinerary.
Yes, Karen, there are definitely still aggressive tour buses and a lot of recent foolish activities and death :( But it’s such an amazing place.
Great guide! I imagine I will be visiting Yellowstone next year on a long road trip – don’t think I’ll dare give camping a try though (ice on the tent?!)..
Cheers,
Maria
Maria, I recommend some of the “glamping” options like permanent tents and yurts. Happy medium!