Finding Serendipity in Jaffa

Part of the reason I’d booked so many days in Tel Aviv was so that I could have a beach day in Jaffa, a seaside suburb that shares municipal services, but is its own city. But the weather had other plans, with wild winds whipping my scarf around my neck and blowing debris in the streets. It reminded me of Sydney’s Bondi.

But weather be damned, I was going to spend an afternoon by the water. I put in my headphones and made the walk from my hostel down Shabazi Street into Jaffa. I treated myself to lunch at Onza, a Turkish-inspired restaurant I’d read about. The place was crowded with brunch goers so I sat at the bar and tucked into my shawarma.

In order to better understand the city by the bay (wait, that name is taken…), I signed up for a free tour with Sandeman’s, one of my favorite tour companies. They offer both tours around Israel and are supported by tips. My enthusiastic guide was a complete history buff, pointing out countless spots before we’d hardly moved.

The clock tower I’d admired upon entering town, it turns out, was made for the tourists to the Holy Land who originally entered via Jaffa’s port. Around the corner was a former prison where Nazi war criminal Adolph Eichmann was held. It’s allegedly becoming a boutique hotel. Even Mark Twain once roamed the streets of Old Jaffa.

Jaffa was built before the Bronze Age and has been inhabited by Egyptians, Ottomans, Romans, Brits, and of course, the Israelis. It’s connected to countless of stories and myths, including the outcropping of jagged rocks that Andromeda is said to have been rescued from Perseus on. Shipwrecks have been found around it in recent years. We also passed St. Peter’s Church commemorates the journey from Jaffa to Rome.

The most interesting place we visited was the House of Simon the Tanner, who hosted the Apostle Peter. It is said that he raised a woman from the dead and had a vision about the future of Christianity. The home now belongs to the Armenian Zakarian family, located near a defunct mosque.

Because of the conflicts between the Muslim community that wanted to return it to a mosque and the current inhabitants, a court ruling determined that it can’t be used for tours. There must be a family member at the house at all times because otherwise it could get turned back into a mosque. My guide even mentioned that a tour group took shelter there during an air raid one day.

After the two-hour tour was over, I browsed the shops that Jaffa is known for. The Old City became an artist colony as a way to revitalize after 1940-1960 wars. These stunning historic spaces are now inhabited by artist types. I picked up a few design-inspired postcards from the shop pictured above. I also liked that despite past clashes, Jaffa is home to Jews, Arabs, and Muslims alike.

I wanted one glimpse at the Jaffa Port before heading back to central Tel Aviv. As I was walking along the water, I saw someone that looked familiar. Instead of yelling her name, I followed her until she turned around. It was Melanie, a friend from high school.

She was in town as a part of a greater trip through her graduate school and I almost skipped the port entirely. She seemed shocked to see me, but I just laughed. The longer you travel, the more you realize just how tiny it is. 

If You Go

Do- Tours run daily at 11 am and 2 pm from the Clock Tower. If time allows, browse the local market and the Old City art galleries and shops.

Eat- I enjoyed Onza, but The Old Man and the Sea also came recommended by Wandering Earl. Na Galat was mentioned by my tour guide, located near the port.

Stay– There are a number of high rise hotels and hostels in Jaffa, including the Old Jaffa Hostel. I stayed at Abraham Tel Aviv in the city.