Charleston, South Carolina, nicknamed the “Holy City,” dates back to 1660 and was then called Charles Towne. It was home to French Huguenots, English colonists, Native Americans, and, later, slaves from West Africa. These people influenced the appearance and culinary scene of the city.
Today, it’s known for its award-winning chefs, historic landmarks, and nearby beaches. It’s a city I lived in for many years and still visit frequently. It’s the perfect place for a weekend getaway.
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The Neighborhoods of Charleston
Most travelers stick to downtown neighborhoods, especially Lower King and the Historic District. Here you’ll find the top attractions, but there are also little pockets within the area. The French Quarter has a few buildings that might remind you of those in New Orleans. But there are dozens of little pockets worth exploring.
Home to the former Navy base, Park Circle is North Charleston’s trendiest neighborhood, set up around a large roundabout and park. Grab a burger at Sesame Burgers & Beer, pizza at EVO Pizzeria, or Irish fare at Madra Rua Irish Pub. Mixson is another development nearby that has restaurants.
Avondale, over in West Ashley, has colorful murals and proudly local businesses. Gene’s Haufbrau is a mainstay, serving German-inspired fare and dozens of craft beers. Al Di La is a beloved Italian restaurant and Triangle Char & Bar brings in the brunch set. There are also a number of stores as well as a brewery and distillery.
Hampton Park is a neighborhood named for its green space, located near The Citadel, the Military College of South Carolina. Moe’s Crosstown Tavern has been a longtime neighborhood staple, but recently new businesses have opened up. The Park Cafe and Butcher & Bee are just a few.
Charleston Restaurants and Cafes
If you tell anyone you’re going to Charleston, they’ll likely give you a full list of places to eat. And it’s true, the main activity in the city is dining. There’s always a new “it” restaurant with a waiting list. I recommend trying the celebrity chef restaurants, like Husk or The Ordinary, for lunch or happy hour. For dinner, make reservations via Resy or OpenTable.
82 Queen– While it’s one of Charleston’s older restaurants, it’s still very relevant in the dining scene. It’s known for its she crab soup, a dish native to the city, that is rich and creamy.
Bowen’s Island Restaurant– There are a few “hole in the wall” seafood restaurants, but Bowen’s has been family-owned for decades and was honored with a James Beard award. It’s survived a few fires and still shells out fresh oysters and shrimp.
Xiao Bao Biscuit– Tucked into a cozy former gas station, XBB has creative Asian-inspired small plates like dumplings and curries. Menus change seasonally and they don’t take reservations.
Callie’s Hot Little Biscuit– Often with a line, this is the place to grab a quick breakfast of biscuits with fried chicken, pimento cheese, or other toppings.
Poe’s Tavern– Over on Sullivan’s Island, enjoy a burger or fish tacos and beer on the patio. It’s named for Edgar Allan Poe, who was stationed at nearby Fort Moultrie for a time.
Daps Breakfast & Imbibe– The stylishly decorated Westside restaurant has breakfast throughout the day, including egg sandwiches, pancakes, hash, and breakfast burritos. Pair with coffee from Black Tap or a glass of “breakfast wine.”
Leon’s – Seafood is the draw at Leon’s Oyster Shop, where you can chow down on oysters, fried shrimp, fried chicken, sandwiches, and small plates. Pair with a local beer or glass of champagne. Go early or risk not getting into this award-winner.
the Taco Spot– Full disclosure: I worked here in college. But this West Ashley eatery is still one of my favorites. Grab a fish taco and choose your own hot sauce to top it with. They also have a selection of Mexican beers.
Poe’s Tavern– Beachgoers flock to this former home on Sullivan’s Island for fish tacos and burgers. It’s named for writer Edgar Allan Poe, who was stationed at nearby Fort Moultrie, where he wrote his story The Gold Bug.
Kudu– Charleston has a number of coffee shops, but this one off King Street is a longtime favorite for African-inspired decor, coffee, beer, and snacks. Grab a seat on the patio and take a break from shopping.
Ms. Rose’s Fine Food & Cocktails– My secret favorite brunch place is just over the bridge in West Ashley. The food, like shrimp and grits and Lowcountry Benedict. They also have lunch and dinner during the week as well as ramen nights.
For more places to eat in Charleston, check out the Charleston City Paper (where I also used to work!).
Charleston Bars and Nightlife
When it comes to Charleston nightlife, you’ll find dives with cheap beer to swanky cocktail lounges that craft drinks to order. There are wine bars popular with the bachelorette crowd and craft breweries serving all styles of beer.
The Commodore– Originally a bar called A Touch of Class, this Eastside establishment reopened with the same decor, but with added live music and cocktails.
Bay Street Biergarten– For a laid back night, head to Biergarten for a massive selection of local and national craft beers on tap and in cans and bottles. They also have excellent bar food like pretzels, sandwiches, and wings.
Recovery Room Tavern– The quintessential dive bar is at the far end of Upper King and is popular with the bike riding set. Grab a can of PBR and enjoy on the often smoky dance floor.
The Tattooed Moose– The industry favorite on Morrison Drive also has a strong beer lineup and funky cocktails as well as food like their famous Duck Club sandwich.
Upstairs @ 345 King– Not only does Skinny Dip have a stunning retail section and upstairs coworking space. But they also have a balcony and rose bar. During the day, they also have coffee and espresso as well as snacks.
Stars– It’s a restaurant in its own right, but in a town of rooftop bars, Stars is one of the best. But keep in mind that it’s pretty crowded on weekends. Grab a frozen bellini to cool off or a glass of wine from the tap.
Proof– This popular King Street cocktail bar doesn’t have an abundance of places to sit, but is better for mingling. The cocktail list is extensive as well as beer and wine.
The Gin Joint– As the name implies, this cocktail bar specializes in gin, but carries other types of liquor as well. The small space has a number of drink selections and “bartender’s choice” where you describe your preferred flavors.
The Cocktail Club– Again, the name is accurate at this cocktail bar that is a dance spot at night. Share a bowl of punch with your crew. They also have a membership program that allows you to skip the line.
Closed for Business– The cozy beer bar is anything but closed with a rotating selection of craft beers from around the globe. Enjoy bites like potato skins and sandwiches.
Breweries– The city also has a few craft brewing operations. Edmund’s Oast Brewing Co. is doing interesting things near “The Neck,” as is Revelry Brewing Co. Westbrook Brewing Company is another, along with Holy City Brewing, Palmetto Brewing Co, and COAST Brewing Company.
Things to Do in Charleston
Charleston has history around every corner and most attractions relate to the early days of the city. Visit the historical buildings and important American landmarks while you’re there. Keep in mind that these aren’t the only attractions and there are plenty more to see. Don’t forget about the beaches!
Charleston City Market– The historic market has been open since the 1800s, but today has permanent and temporary stalls with everything from souvenirs to antique jewelry to food. Be sure to admire the Gullah women weaving Sweetgrass baskets.
Rainbow Row– Looking for the most photographed spot in town? This is it. The multicolored homes are some of the oldest in the city. Go early to snap photos before walking down to White Point Gardens, better known as The Battery.
The Charleston Museum– The oldest museum in the country, this is a perfect rainy day activity. The collection includes Egyptian artifacts, the whale skeleton, and antebellum clothing. Admission also can get you entry into one of their historic houses.
Gibbes Museum of Art– Charleston’s hometown art museum opened in the 1900s because of the work of a local philanthropist who gave the property his name. Exhibitions usually have some connection with Charleston or the South and the permanent collection features colonial portraiture and more contemporary pieces.
South Carolina Aquarium– This waterfront aquarium focuses on education with the state’s native species of fish and other creatures. They have a sea turtle rehabilitation program and otters that are a fan favorite.
Charlestowne Landing– Set near the original arrival point of colonists, Charles Towne Landing is a recreated period village, complete with a ship, reenactments, and even an animal habitat. It’s managed by South Carolina State Parks.
Fort Sumter Ferry Terminal– Civil War buffs know this landmark as the site of the first shots fired from the war. But if you want to know more, visit the Friends of the Hunley, site of a Confederate submarine pulled from the ocean floor, and Magnolia Cemetery Trust, where crews from the submarines are buried.
Angel Oak– The oldest living thing east of the Mississippi is a majestic oak tree that has shaded picnickers and served as a jungle gym for children for hundreds of years. It’s estimated to be over 400 years old and it’s free to visit the park.
Plantations and Historic Houses– Charleston has dozens of historic homes that are open to tours. Boone Hall was featured in The Notebook and the Heyward Washington and Joseph Manigault houses are operated by the Charleston Museum.
Tours- I don’t recommend carriage tours because of the treatment of animals, but there are plenty of ways to see the city. The Charleston Harbor History Tour highlights the city’s waterways, while the 2-Hour Historical Walking Tour of Charleston explores by foot. I’ve also been on the Downtown Charleston Culinary Tour.
Shopping in Charleston
Charleston has a store for every style, whether you’re looking for designer goods like or funky vintage finds. King Street is ground zero for shopping in the city, but don’t hesitate to look beyond downtown.
Exchange Factor– My all-time favorite Charleston store is now limited to its larger North Charleston outpost and you never know what you might find. They also have a costume and men’s section.
The Skinny Dip: Charleston Edition– The stylish store not only has a wine bar upstairs, but carefully selects the vendors it carries. Here you’ll find prints of the city, apparel, and gifts.
Croghan’s Jewel Box– If you are looking for antique jewelry, there’s nowhere better than Croghan’s. They also carry modern pieces inspired by the city’s gatework and natural elements.
Tanger Outlets– Shop for deals at the North Charleston outlet mall at stores like Banana Republic, Francesca’s, and Levi’s.
The Eclectic Cafe and Vinyl– While many of Charleston’s record stores have closed over the years, this Spring Street coffee shop sells new and used vinyl.
Blue Bicycle Books– Wander the aisles of this favorite local book store that hosts author events and has new, used, and vintage books.
KITTSONA– This Midwestern chain has an outpost on King Street, carrying stylish and affordable women’s clothing, jewelry, home decor, and gifts.
Toss Designs– The store also sells gifts along with sleepwear, shoes, and travel gear that can be personalized.
Where to Stay in Charleston
Staying in Charleston gets very expensive, despite the prevalence of places to stay. Splurge on a boutique hotel or save money by staying on Lockwood Drive or across the river. Don’t expect to pay less than $200 per night at most places.
NotSo Hostel– The exception is this hostel and guesthouse on Spring Street, which has both dorms and private rooms along with bike rentals and breakfast. It’s in a great location, within walking distance of the shops and restaurants of King Street.
The Spectator Hotel– Inspired by the Jazz Age and Art Deco, this City Market-adjacent hotel comes with a butler service, daily breakfast in bed, Nespresso machines, bikes to borrow, and a swanky cocktail bar.
Zero George– Set in a few Charleston row houses, the boutique property also has rental bikes, an in-house restaurant, and cozy piazzas to relax on. King and queen rooms are available, along with suites. There’s even a cooking school.
Vendue Inn– Considered to be Charleston’s art hotel, this property has been named the top in the city. Spanning two buildings that used to be warehouses, your stay includes breakfast, welcome champagne, and WiFi. Their rooftop bar is popular and the walls are covered in impressive works of art.
The Dewberry Charleston– Set in a former federal building, this hotel features midcentury modern decor. It has a French brasserie, luxurious spa, and a trendy boutique. The 155 rooms and suites are stylish and come with plush bathrobes.
The Restoration on King– Comprised of four buildings on Charleston’s main thoroughfare, the suites have exposed brickwork and large windows. There’s also a rooftop bar and restaurant, a spa and nail salon, coffee shop, store, and art gallery.
Charleston Harbor Resort and Marina– Just over the bridge in Mount Pleasant, the oceanfront resort has multiple options for accommodation, including rooms, suites, and family rooms between The Beach Club and Harborside. There are multiple restaurants, pools, and a spa onsite.
KOA Campgrounds– Looking for a place to park your RV or tent? These campgrounds in Mount Pleasant also have cabins for rent. Campground at James Island County Park is another option on the other side of the peninsula.
Rentals- Airbnb does operate in the city, but not downtown because of affordable housing laws. Instead, opt for somewhere across the river or a boat in the marina, as I did recently. VRBO is a good resource for beach rentals.
Transportation in Charleston
Charleston is a highly walkable destination, so don’t be afraid to see the city by foot. Biking is a popular way to get around. You can bring your own, borrow from your hotel, or rent one. Holy Spokes is the city’s bike share program, which costs $12 for 24 hours. The Bicycle Shoppe on Meeting Street also rents bikes for for $7-10 per hour, $28-40 per day or $50-120 per week. Be sure that you have get a lock, as bike theft is common.
Pedicabs, pictured above, are another option, but are mostly for tourists and congregate around Market Street. You’re limited to only two people per pedicab, so this isn’t a great option if you’re in a group.
CARTA is Charleston’s public transportation system, which isn’t usually employed by visitors. The downtown trolley, known as DASH, offers a free ride that runs through town to the South Carolina Aquarium, the Visitor’s Center and King Street. Other services run to the airport in North Charleston, Summerville, West Ashley and beyond. Standard fares are $1.75 each way for standard routes and $3.00 each way for express and flex routes.
Driving in Charleston is essential if you’re exploring areas like Wadmalaw or Kiawah islands, but can be avoided entirely if you’re staying downtown. Hotel parking and the visitor’s center deck will cost you at least $10 per day and most don’t have an in and out policy. Street parking is dicey, as they vary by street, and metered spots are hard to come by. The city writes tickets before you can blink, so you may not want to risk it.
Taxis are hit or miss in Charleston, as they’re hard to hail on the street at certain times of day. It’s best to have a few taxi numbers written down in advance. Charleston Green Taxi is well run and has a fleet of hybrid vehicles.
Uber and Lyft both operate in the city, which is ideal for getting home at night or those early morning airport runs. Get a discount on your first Lyft ride by using the code “CAROLINE868074”.
Speaking of the airport, Charleston International Airport is located about 30 minutes from downtown and has flights from all the major airlines. They have a rental car counter or you can take the bus into downtown via the XP4 that stops at the visitors center. Nearby is the Amtrak Charleston, serviced by the Palmetto line, and the Greyhound bus station.
I’ve never been to Charleston. I love eating, so definitely I will enjoy staying here. Lol.