Cusco, Peru is a place that just about every traveler to the country stops through on their way to Machu Picchu, but apart from a few days to acclimate to the altitude, travelers don’t explore on its own. The hilly city is covered in orange tile roofs and cathedrals dating back centuries. Originally the capital of the Inca empire, ruins still can be found around the city.
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Getting There
I decided to skip the long bus ride and fly straight from Lima to Cusco via Star Peru. I found a $99 flight and since I was short on time, decided it was worth it. Many other airlines fly this route, including LATAM, Avianca, and Viva Air, and most fly early in the morning. I ended up sleeping at the airport between my arrival flight and my morning flight and was far from the only one.
PeruHop and other companies run this route in their modern fleet of buses, but PeruHop stops places along the way. The journey takes over 20 hours. From Cusco, I took the InkaExpress bus to Puno. Within Cusco, you’ll be able to walk most places, but if you need to go further, like to the bus station, there are also taxis and colectivos.
Where to Stay in Cusco
There are plenty of hotel and hostel options, including well-known chains, but visitors can also do homestays to practice your Spanish and learn about local families. There’s a price range for everybody, but I ended up staying at nicer hostels with better amenities that were still under $20 USD per night.
Ecopackers– I’m not going to lie, I probably booked this place for its name and claim to be eco-friendly, but felt that steps could be taken to make it even more so like providing filtered water for a fee instead of selling bottles. But the beds were comfortable and it included breakfast.
Hostel Kokopelli Cusco– After two nights at Ecopackers, I booked two more at Kokopelli for a different vibe. Ecopackers was super relaxed and Kokopelli had a bit more of a party atmosphere. Murals covered the walls and it wasn’t uncommon to see people sleeping on all the furniture around the hostel at all times of day and night. But I was glad to have their restaurant and filtered water.
Ninos Hotel Meloc– Your stay contributes to the community at these hotels, Fierro and Meloc, which support local children with medical care and daily meals. Both have cozy common spaces and daily breakfast as well as in-house restaurants and a gift shop selling locally-made goods.
Andean Wings Boutique Hotel– The mid-tier hotel has stylish rooms and common spaces furnished with artwork available for purchase and antique furnishings. The seventeen rooms and suites include daily breakfast and airport transfers.
Belmond Hotel Monasterio– If money is no object or you’re celebrating a big occasion, splurge on this luxury hotel located in a former monastery. It’s also a protected national monument full of history, art, and top-notch eateries.
You can also take advantage of rentals, especially if you’re traveling with a group. Some of the girls on my Machu Picchu hike were staying at an Airbnb in town.
Where to Eat and Drink in Cusco
I was surprised at how much incredible food there is to be had in Cusco, whether you’re looking for quick and tasty street food or one of the region’s top restaurants. I also found plenty of vegetarian and vegan-friendly eats, likely because of the presence of Western tourists. And if you’re looking for a cheap and tasty meal, go to the market and eat at one of their stalls.
Las Frescas Salad Bar & More– This veggie-friendly salad bar was my first meal in town and right around the corner from my hostel. I had a delicious sweet potato curry bowl. They also had salads, soups, and desserts.
LIMBUS RESTOBAR– There’s no better place to have lunch with a view than this San Blas spot. They have a number of dishes to share as well as burgers, pastas, and curries. Choose from one of the large menu of cocktails and top-shelf liquors.
Incanto– Cusco seems like an odd place for Italian fare, but it was incredible. The restaurant has wood fired pizzas and freshly made pasta, including cuy pasta, which I enjoyed. They carry locally brewed beers and wine.
Josefina Tamales- This isn’t a traditional restaurant, but a friend who visited right before me. There’s a local woman set up near the Plaza de Armas, right next to Paddy’s Pub, that sells fresh tamales, one sweet and one savory, until they run out. They cost less than $1!
Kion– One of the best places I ate was this Chinese-Peruvian fusion spot. I had a seat at the bar and had a lomo saltado/fajitas dish and watched them make pisco sours. Chow down on dim sum and other delicious dishes.
Cicciolina– I didn’t make it here in my short time in Cusco, but a friend told me that their baked goods and brunch are incredible. It includes a bakery, tapas bar, and Italian restaurant.
Jack’s Café Bar– Aussies missing home or just enthusiasts can enjoy dishes like avocado toasties, muesli, Thai curries, and soups. Best of all, all of Jack’s dishes are less than $8 USD, ideal for budget travelers.
Green Point Restaurants– Another vegetarian restaurant, Green Point serves beautifully crafted fare like tacos, quinoa salads, flatbreads, soups, and juices.
Chia– My hostel offered discounts at this vegan restaurant that I didn’t have the chance to get to. The menu of salads and other dishes are beautifully plated with edible flowers.
Organika– Fresh and local ingredients are the star at this restaurant, which sources vegetables from their Sacred Valley garden. Highlights include salads and pasta.
MUSEO DEL PISCO– There are so many places to have pisco sours, but it’s nice to learn about how the national drink is made and its origins. The museum is little more than a bar with murals telling about the history, but opt for the pisco tasting.
Paddy’s Irish Pub– Calling itself the “highest Irish pub in the world,” this bar on the Plaza de las Armas has all the essentials like Irish breakfast, Guinness, Jameson, and Irish coffee as well as international sports on tv.
Nuevo Mundo Draft Bar– The Lima-based brewery has a taproom offering their beers off the main square. They also have light bites.
Café RICCHARY– This small shop sells freshly brewed coffee drinks as well as their beans to take home, brought from their coffee farm.
What to Do in Cusco
There’s plenty to keep yourself busy during your time in Cusco, whether you’re killing time before heading into the mountains or finishing up your days in the Inca city.
San Pedro Market– No matter what you want to buy, you’ll likely find it at the local market. They sell produce, plants, meats, souvenirs, and religious items. It’s a pungent mix of smells, but is the best place in town to pick up gifts like alpaca sweaters.
Museo de Arte Precolombino– While it was under construction during my visit and therefore offered free entry, usually you can spend hours admiring the decorative art pieces of the people who lived in this area thousands of years ago.
Churches– Cusco has a number of ancient churches built by the Spanish, including Cathedral of Santo Domingo, Cusco. All charge an entry fee, around 25 soles ($7 USD) but there is a combination ticket that gets you into all of them.
Tours– There are a few free walking tours in town, but I went on a three-hour walk with Inka Milky Way, which I enjoyed. Curious Monkey runs food tours, but I opted for the cheaper alternative.
Day Trips– Many people opt for Cusco as a base for day trips to places like Rainbow Mountain or the Sacred Valley. I decided against Rainbow Mountain because it is very steep, a far drive from Cusco, and conditions vary greatly. But if you are interested in going, check out my friend Anna’s post. Dozens of operators run to Sacred Valley, but Sacsayhuaman is an Inca site on the outskirts of town worth a visit.
A Few Additional Notes
You will see local people with baby alpacas dressed in native attire for photo ops. There are a lot of opinions about this, but I decided against this for a few reasons. Firstly, they’ll ask for money, which isn’t what I necessarily take issue with. Secondly, I don’t have any way of knowing about the welfare of the animals or children posing for pictures. I also feel like there are plenty of places to see alpacas in the wild around Cusco to see.
And speaking of finding the standard Instagram photos, the go-to dish to order is cuy, or guinea pig. But for the locals, it’s something to be eaten on special occasions. In Cusco, it’s mostly stocked in restaurants for tourists, who snap their photos but don’t eat it all. Like whale meat in Iceland, it’s tourism that keeps guinea pig on menus.
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