Anytime I explore a trendy neighborhood in the world, I have a tendency to compare it to other places. Saying Barranco is like Lima’s Brooklyn is unfair to both Lima and Brooklyn, but it’s a shorthand to explain the type of places you’ll find there. Maybe even more like Shoreditch in London or Newtown in Sydney.
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My time in Lima was short, but I managed to squeeze in a fair amount of exploring. I arrived around midnight on my PeruHop bus and slept at Pool Paradise Lima, a YHA-affiliated hostel in the Miraflores neighborhood, central to just about everything. After some souvenir shopping, I walked to Barranco, a seaside neighborhood I’d heard a lot about.
I walked around for a long time, snapping photos of everything I saw, from the graffiti-covered Victorian buildings, some boarded up or for sale to the street art influenced by Inca legends like what I’d found in Guatemala City. As my stomach growled, I was indecisive with so many options, eventually ending up at BarBarian Barranco, a sports bar where I noshed on wings and locally brewed craft beer.
The main reason for my visit was a trip to MATE Mario Testino Museum, dedicated to the well-known fashion photographer. I hadn’t done much research about him, but once inside, I realized I was very familiar with his work. He was the last person to photograph Princess Diana for a publication before her death and often works with models and celebrities. In addition to the galleries on his work, there were exhibits on his contemporaries and the influence of the native cultures of Peru.
Across the street from the museum, I caught a glimpse of the ocean and the swanky homes that overlook it. I could certainly get used to this.
If You Go
While I didn’t have enough time to do everything I wanted to, I made a list of places that had been recommended to me or that I saw while walking around.
Eat: This neighborhood is home to some of Eater’s top restaurants in the city, including SIBARIS cocina libre, Isolina Soto, Amoramar, and Hotel B.
Drink: Ayahuasca is named for the Amazonian drink known to cause hallucinations, but the drinks are a bit more tame at this bar. Barranco Beer Company serves locally-brewed beer as does Wick’s Brewpub.
Stay: While I stayed in Miraflores, there are plenty of places in Barranco. Second Home Peru is a beautiful guesthouse, while The Point Hostels Lima is a budget-friendly option. 3B Barranco’s – Chic and Basic – B&B has minimalist style at a reasonable price. Airbnb is another great option.
Do: In addition to the MATE Museum, the Electricity Museum down the street talks about the neighborhood’s role in powering Lima, including the streetcar line that once ran through it. Museo de Arte Contemporáneo also showcases modern works of art from Peru and beyond. There’s also a free walking tour of the Barranco district.
Shop: La Zapateria Handmade is a stunning store that makes handmade shoes and leather accessories. They are on the pricey end, but worth it for a quality made product that supports the local community. Next door, there’s a bookstore with a few English language selections.
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