Visiting Banff in the Summer

A few weeks back, my family and I took our first vacation together in a number of years. Previously, we’d been to Puerto Rico and Maine, but it had been many years since we could all sync our schedules. After seeing pictures of iconic Lake Louise, pictured above, my mom chose our destination: Banff National Park in Alberta, Canada.

It ended up being a fun town to explore, especially since its inhabited by Aussie working holidaymakers, and I would definitely come back in winter. And while traveling during high season is tricky and expensive, we mostly were able to get by unscathed by the tourist masses.

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Getting There and Around

We flew into Calgary, home of the famous Stampede that followed our visit, via Delta and Westjet (on Canada Day!). From there, we rented a car and drove towards the park. There aren’t really direct flights from the United States, so expect your journey to take a while.

We also found rental cars to be super expensive, but this was partially because we had five people and were booking sort of last minute. The park is also accessible by the scenic Rocky Mountaineer train.

From the airport, it was a little over an hour to our rental house, which I’ll mention below. If you don’t want to rent a car, there are shuttles from Brewster Express that stop a number of places between the airport and as far as Jasper. You can also use this as a way to get around the parks, but it can get pricey.

When it comes to getting between locations in the park, you’ll either have to rent a car or take the city or hop on hop off buses. Some of the hotels also have shuttles for guests. Moose Travel Network runs tours of this region for backpackers.

You can’t visit the park without a parks pass. They last for a year and get you into all of Canada’s national parks. The cost varies based on how many people are in your party.

The Sights of Banff National Park

We didn’t get to explore Calgary much, so most of our sightseeing was limited to the top places within Banff National Park. We only had time for one hike, but I had the Tunnel Mountain Trail and Hoodoos Trail recommended to me. 

Lake Louise– If there was one place that was crowded every minute we were there, it was Lake Louise. The bright blue lake is well known for its red canoes featured often on Instagram. There were even people there in the rain. Insider tip: either wake up early (5:30 or 6 am!) to beat the crowds and avoid having to take the parking shuttle or walk to the right towards the hotel for photos without crowds.

Lake Agnes Tea House– My sister Sammi picked out the hike to another scenic lake for one of our activities. Thankfully the sun was out that day as we hiked for an hour each way up the hill to a rustic teahouse. It has sandwiches and teas that you can get to go or scout for a table.

Banff Upper Hot Springs– I can’t go anywhere without checking out the hot springs. The ones at Banff are insanely crowded, but are nice if you go first thing in the morning. They stay open until 9 pm and are cheaper after a certain time of night. Bring your own towel to save money and if you’re feeling kitschy, rent one of the old fashioned bathing costumes.

Cave and Basin– We didn’t get to this site in time before it closed, but we enjoyed walking around the boardwalks for great views and seeing where the hot springs bubble up. Visitors can tour the underground springs used by Indigenous peoples for generations and became a national park in the 1880s.

Cascade Gardens- We wandered around these beautiful gardens in Banff while waiting out the rain and found plenty of people there posing for family photos. Wooden gazebos and bright flowers make this spot a must-see.

Moraine Lake– Second only to Lake Louise, this glacially fed lake is also bright blue. During the summer months, parking is a nightmare, so go as early as possible to avoid missing out. The Rockpile hike offers the best views. 

Johnston Canyon– Explore the Upper and Lower Falls of this natural attraction with paved trails. It’s beautiful any time of year, not just summer. 

Banff Centre– After going to the annual tour of the film festival year after year, I was excited to see the place where these artists and creatives come for residencies. We saw an art gallery opening that also had an artists studio open house.

Athabasca Glacier– Don’t miss a visit to what’s known as the Columbia Icefield, which actually encompasses five glaciers. The (often crowded) visitor’s center is where tours leave from, which take you into all-terrain vehicles to see the ice up close. It’s a worthwhile splurge, but you can also do a guided hike from the base.

Museums- If you get caught in one of those summer storms, take advantage of the area museums. The Whyte Museum of the Canadian Rockies interprets the cultural history of this mountainous region, while the Buffalo Nations Museum covers the history of local Indigenous tribes.

Lakes- Yes, there are so many pretty lakes. Peyto Lake was one praised by our guide at the Icefields, but we didn’t have time. Lake Minnewanka was a favorite of ours, as was Vermilion Lakes. Grassi Lakes in Canmore is a nice introductory lake hike to get you started.

Gondolas– We skipped the gondolas around Banff and Lake Louise because of time and price, but it’s a popular activity, especially during the winter months.

Scenic drives- The Bow Valley Parkway and Icefields Pkwy are considered to be the most beautiful drives in this region, so if they are open, detour this way! Morant’s Curve on the BVP is the best place to spot the passing trains.

Shopping- Banff and Canmore both had great shops to browse, especially if you need outdoor goods from companies like Roots and Lole. In Canmore, don’t miss Cafe Books Ltd, a store that spans between three spaces and in Banff, Last Temptation has a nice selection of vintage clothing. Banff Tea Co has loose leaf teas to take home.

Also nearby are Glacier, Yoho, Jasper, and Kootenay national parks if you want to explore even further. Next trip, I’d like to visit Rogers Pass, Emerald Lake, and the Radium Hot Springs.

Where to Eat in Banff National Park

I found a number of recommendations about great places to eat in the area. Some we sought out and others we lucked into.

Rocky Mountain Bagel Co– Our first meal in Canada, I loved the bagels at this cozy Canmore spot so much that we came back later in the week. It’s a nice spot to linger over your breakfast with a good book.

Whitebark Cafe– This trendy Aussie-style coffee shop is located in the lobby of a hotel on your way into Banff. It’s easy to fuel up with a latte before hitting the sights.

Nourish Bistro Banff– If I had been traveling on my own, I definitely would have went to this vegetarian restaurant that came highly praised for its bowls, salads, and sandwiches.

Rocky Mountain Flatbread Co.– On our last night, we ordered pizzas and flatbreads from this regional chain. They had a build-your-own option as well as premium toppings.

Tavern 1883– One of our favorite meals, this restaurant was busy for our entire time in Canmore. I loved my fish tacos and sweet potato fries and the burgers and poutine seemed to be popular as well.

Trailhead Cafe– Stock up on snacks and sandwiches from this Lake Louise area cafe. There aren’t many other options, but these are good. I recommend the Amman, a cronut-type pastry.

Graze Food & Drink– The friendly owner welcomed us to this sports bar and restaurant, which was the perfect place to watch a World Cup match. Here I enjoyed a chicken curry dish.

Grizzly Paw– We grabbed a quick beer here at the Canmore brewery before dinner. The bartenders were very friendly and I was pleased with their selection.

Tooloulous– I was surprised to find Louisiana style fare in Canada, but we enjoyed cornbread, shrimp, crab bisque, and even saw other diners with crawfish! Make reservations for dinner because it’s a small restaurant.

Park Distillery Restaurant and Bar– We didn’t make it over here, but Sammi and I tucked into the shop to see it. The distillery makes gin and their in-house restaurant makes cocktails with it.

Where to Stay in Banff National Park

If you’re traveling to Banff in the summer, be sure to book your accommodations well in advance because the area is packed. It’s an area you can splurge on one of the iconic resorts or rough it at a campsite.

Samesun Banff– Located in the heart of Banff town, this stylish hostel has comfy beds, an in-house bar, a kitchen, and nightly activities.

HI Mosquito Creek Hostel– In addition to the multiple Hostelling International properties between Banff, Jasper, and Yoho national parks, Mosquito Creek is a backcountry hostel in the heart of the Rockies with rustic facilities.

Campgrounds– There are dozens of campsites between the national parks, including at Lake Louise, Johnston Canyon, and Tunnel Mountain. Rent-a-Tent offers gear rentals if you don’t want to fly with a tent.

Campervans- If you need transportation and a place to stay, combine with a campervan or RV rental. Wicked Campers (as I saw in Australia) rents colorful painted vans from Calgary, while Karma Campervans has more sleek looking vans. Other companies only rent from as close as Vancouver.

Airbnb– My family and I stayed in a rental in Canmore (book here), which was only 5 minutes from the park gates and had kitchens, laundry, and plenty of space. I highly recommend staying outside of Banff town.

Fairmont Banff Springs Hotel– The stunning 1920s hotel is perhaps the area’s most iconic and was originally one of the country’s great railway hotels. Countless celebrities and politicians have stayed here over the years, including Queen Elizabeth.

Fairmont Chateau Lake Louise– Built in 1911, the park’s other Fairmont hotel overlooks bright blue Lake Louise. It has seven restaurants and a lower level shopping arcade that is open to non-guests.

What I Packed for Banff National Park

It was surprisingly cold for the first week of July, so I packed a lot of layers, including my ExOfficio jacket and Eddie Bauer rain jacket. I don’t have hiking boots, so I had my running shoes. Most days, I wore leggings and layered tops that I could take off as it warmed up. I also brought my hiking poles, which my mom used on our Lake Agnes hike. A small daypack is also useful if you plan on being gone all day.

A Note on Wildlife: As with other national parks, keep your distance from creatures. Park rangers are usually onsite when there’s a big group of them.

Have you been to Banff National Park? Share your tips.