Flying Above the Nazca Lines

My grandparents traveled to Peru decades ago, so when I told them that I was traveling there, they insisted that I fly over Nazca (or Nasca). It wasn’t in my plans, even though the famous lines do interest me, because I was worried about fitting in the time, but in the end, I was glad I did. I got off my Peru Hop bus from Arequipa to spend 24 hours in the small town where the mysterious lines are located and am glad I did.

History of the Nazca Lines

The area is named for the Nazca people, who lived in the desert area from 100 to 600 AD, after the Paracas people but far before the Inca, who didn’t live until 1200 AD. Like the other peoples, the Nazca built pyramids and had their own culture with textiles, ceramics, and art, but little remains from that time because of the arrival of the Spanish.

Between 300 BC and 800 AD, the people carved large-scale lines into the gypsum deposited desert in a various shapes. Thousands of people worked on each line and some died because there wasn’t enough water.

There were rumors of the lines for generations, then assumed to be Inca walkways, but in 1926 they were investigated by outsiders. In 1941, American professor Paul Kosok is credited with “discovering” them, or realizing what the purpose was and its connection to the solstice. 

Maria Reiche immigrated to Peru in 1932 during a time of unrest in Germany. She later worked with Kosok and was the translator for his scientific articles. She studied them and protected them until her death in 1998 and the airport is named for her.

It wasn’t until the twentieth century that the lines were seen from above, showing the various figures, including a 96 meter long hummingbird, a tree, and a spider. The lines feature animals that didn’t exist in Nasca at that time, but were found in Peru, suggesting that these people had traveled within the country.

Now considered to be an astronomical calendar, some are steeped in mystery, including a man that could be an astronaut or alien. Were these actually built by outer space travelers, like I’d heard at Guachimontones? It’s one of many reasons that the lines bring in so many curious travelers.

How to See the Nazca Lines

Let’s start out by saying that you do not have to fly to see the lines, but it is the best way. If you don’t want to fly, there is a viewing platform, which Peru Hop stops at, that allows you to see the lizard, which was cut by the Panamerican Highway.

If you do want to fly to see the lines, do your research on the airlines. I priced the tours in advance before going and saw prices as high as $260, but once I was in Peru, I ended up booking a flight for $80 USD through Find Local Trips, which ended up being with AeroNasca, one of the better companies.

It might be possible to find cheaper flights, but I felt like this was a fair price. However, if you’re backpacking for longer, it’s a splurge you might not be ready for. There’s also a $10 USD airport tax that you’ll pay when you arrive.

Ideally, your chosen company will pick you up in town and take you to Aeropuerto Maria Reiche. The man from my hotel also works for AeroNasca, so he took me to the airport, brought me to the desk, and helped me check in. I showed my passport and had only a small bag of items to bring on board.

I was given a ticket and waited around 30 minutes to board, watching a video about the lines. From there, we walked out onto the airstrip, got inside the plane, and put on our headphones. After the flight, I waited a long time to be picked up again, so be aware of this if you’re short on time or have a bus to catch.

The Nazca Lines Flight Experience

I wasn’t sure of what to expect. I’d read up on accidents in these tiny planes, but figured this was a good way to go out. I’ve flown in even smaller planes than these Cessnas, so I wasn’t overly concerned about that, and it had been a few years since any incidents took place.

Also in my plane was a man who worked for the aviation authority with his family. While his baby daughter would end up throwing up all over the back seat, I didn’t get motion sick. But if you are slightly susceptible, be sure to take as much medication as possible before you go.

The flight itself is short, no more than 45 minutes, but the pilot will point out the major lines along the way. It’s tricky to get photos to turn out, but it doesn’t hurt to keep snapping. Because the planes are so small, everyone pretty much has a view and the plane will turn on its side so that you can see both sides. This is the part of the flight where you’re likely to lose your lunch!

What Else to See and Do in Nazca

The town of Nazca does have a few things to do if you’re looking to spend some time before or after your Nazca flight. The Museo Maria Reiche outside of town discusses the scientist’s life and artifacts found in the area in her former home.

The Cantalloc Aqueducts can be seen from the air, but we skipped them since someone was sick, but you can also visit from the ground. The nearby Paredones is an archaeological site inhabited by Incas. Carretera a Chauchilla is an interesting cemetery where the native people were buried sitting up so they would be ready to emerge into the next life.

I only had a few meals in town, but I liked Mamashana Cafe Restaurante and La Estación. If you’re traveling onward to Huacachina, take advantage of the ATMs in town since there are none in the desert oasis.

Getting to Nazca

I arrived in Nasca around 5 pm with Peru Hop and got dropped off at Mom’s Cafe, which is on the approach into town. I was picked up by someone from my hotel, Nasca Travel One Hostel, which I had booked through Peru Hop. My hostel was more like a guesthouse with private rooms and breakfast daily. It’s a bit further out of town, so keep that in mind if you’re walking around like I did. It was easy to book as I just sent an email before arriving.

There were a number of people who came in just for the day to see the lines before leaving that night with other bus companies like Green Toad. Peru Hop and other companies also offer the Nasca flight experience as a day trip from Huacachina. Cruz del Sur goes from Ica, but you can take a taxi from Huacachina to Ica.

Further Reading

The Essential Guide, Mysteries and Secrets: The Nasca Lines

Nasca Lines: The Buried Secrets

Eight Things to Know Before Flying the Nazca Lines, Along Dusty Roads