A mistake on my end almost had me missing Arequipa entirely and spending nearly a whole day on a bus. But thankfully the situation was quickly remedied because I can’t imagine not seeing the White City for myself, even if only for twenty four hours. I arrived on my Peru Hop bus around 5 in the morning when local revelers were still out partying, spilling into the streets.
One of the guides walked me to my hostel and I was let in, but had to wait until check in. So I pulled out my travel pillow, Turkish towel, and eye mask to settle into a makeshift bed on a wicker loveseat, waiting for the sun to come up. More people arrived after I did and others left around the same time, somewhere between night and day.
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Arequipa is a base for trips to Colca Canyon, home to the Andean condor, so most stays are brief. But after my Inca Trail trip, and after I decided to do a Nazca flight, I decided to skip another hike-heavy destination. Instead, I wanted to spend my brief time exploring the city, which reminded me of Antigua and San Juan del Sur.
But before I could do that, I waited until the sun rose and had breakfast on the roof of my hostel with views of the mountains beyond. I dropped my bags, grabbed my camera, and went out to see what the city was known for.
What I didn’t know at the time was that this is not an early rising town. I probably should have, due to the very late night crowd the previous evening/morning. I searched in vain for a coffee shop, which didn’t open until nearly 10 am. So I had the place mostly to myself, snapping each ancient building, every quiet corner.
I didn’t do many of the things I’d read about in Arequipa, a holy city known as the Rome of Latin America. I skipped the free walking tour, since I had done one in Cusco, and didn’t walk to the Yanahuara viewpoint. I didn’t pay to tour the Basilica Cathedral of Arequipa.
I briefly saw Mundo Alpaca, an attraction that is mostly a souvenir store, but didn’t buy anything. They have educational panels teaching visitors about alpaca wool and even a few llamas and alpacas in a pen.
After I saw everything there was to see, I decided to “splurge” on the 40 soles for Monasterio de Santa Catalina. In the whole scheme of things, the $12 USD to visit this attraction was nothing, but when everything else in Peru costs half that, it seemed high.
But once I entered, I saw why. There was something to photograph around every corner, as you can see above. The 1579 structure was a Spanish convent that uses volcanic stone. The walled buildings were damaged in earthquakes, but opened to the public in 1970. But some parts are still used by nuns. Rooms have been designed to look how they did when the women lived in the cloisters and another area is used as an art gallery.
I could have spent hours in the monastery, especially since some areas had WiFi! I happily found street art throughout Arequipa, including this supremely appropriate mural near a school around the corner from Mundo Alpaca. Others were wheatpaste drawings and small murals scrawled on ancient walls. It was quite the contrast to the old paintings of Santa Catalina. I’m so glad I made time to see Arequipa.
Where to Eat and Drink in Arequipa
I was very impressed with the restaurants in Arequipa, wishing I’d planned more time to test out the plentiful vegan restaurants. El Buda Profano was one of the best places I ate, a vegan restaurant with Asian influences. I had mushroom and cashew dumplings, but they also had sushi and ramen without meat. I also ate at Charatacos, a simple Mexican restaurant owned by a man from Mexico City.
Other places I had recommended to me were Huayruro Peruvian Coffee Shop, Zigzag, Chicha, Chelawasi Public House, and Las Gringas. I didn’t experience the nightlife scene, but it seems that plenty of places were open late if you’re so inclined.
Where to Stay in Arequipa
Le Foyer Hostel was my home for those nights, a gorgeous upstairs location with views of the city, cozy rooms, and fantastic breakfasts. It got to be loud at night, but not really because of the place itself, just the atmosphere of the city. I paid about $30 USD for a single room with its own bathroom and television.
But there are plenty of places to choose from. Wild Rover Hostel has a party vibe, so I skipped it, but this is where many Peru Hop guests stay due to the discount. I also considered La Hosteria, Palla Boutique Hotel, and Casa de Avila.
Agness of eTramping says
This is the first time I’ve heard about Arequipa and it’s a place which I’d love to explore at least for 24 hours! Thanks for offering such a detailed guide and exceptional itinerary, Caroline!
farenexus says
I have never heard about this place before reading your article. It seems good enough to explore. Thanks for letting us know about this place!!
Jessica Hill says
Interesting take on this city!
John says
Sounds like fun. I’m going there by flight tomorrow from lima, a tall Irish man alone, safe I hope, or should I say, beers will help jeje