Johannesburg as a Solo Traveler

“I don’t feel safe driving here,” my Uber driver kept repeating during the 40-minute drive from the airport.

Umm, okay. Not exactly how I wanted to start my month-long solo trip to South Africa.

Misadventures in Joburg

When we hit traffic on the highway, he said he was going to take a “faster, but less safe” route. I didn’t even know what to say, exhausted from a full 24 hours of travel. But we got to my hostel without incident, which is where the adventure really began.

There was some work being done on the neighborhood’s power grid, so it was pitch black. I would later learn is a nation-wide electrical problem being fixed through load shedding. No lights, wifi, or elevators. And I was staying on the fourth floor. I hiked the flights of stairs to my room and showered using my cell phone as a light.

All of the restaurants nearby were closed and I didn’t want to wander around in the dark, so with a 15% battery on my phone, I ordered Nando’s delivery. Best $5 I’ve ever spent. I quickly spent the power on my laptop and Kindle before going to bed, partially out of boredom. I’d had a similar experience in Melbourne but didn’t expect it again.

Silver Linings

I’d hoped the power, and with it, the air conditioning, would kick on sometime in the night, but it didn’t. I had breakfast at a Turkish cafe around the corner since the hostel restaurant was closed. It was called Galata Cafe & Bakery, named for a place I’d visited in Istanbul.

I assessed my options as the rain fell. It was too late to join a tour, so I caught an Uber with an again-dying battery to the Apartheid Museum (admission is 95 rand). I’d heard how important of a place it was and ended up spending four hours roaming the halls, finding many parallels between apartheid and the American Civil Rights Movement. It set up my knowledge for my travels through the rest of the country.

I had lunch in their cafe and used their electricity until I had enough battery to leave. But, of course, the lights were still off. I didn’t want to waste my only full day in Johannesburg, but I was exhausted. From travel. From the stress of unchecked emails. From the feeling of being “on guard” since the initial car ride.

Valentine’s Day for One

So I had to turn things around. I wasn’t going to be able to use the facilities at my hostel and hopped in a hostel to check out the Maboneng Precinct, a trendy neighborhood known for its restaurants, shops, art galleries, and street art. You might equate it to Joburg’s Bushwick or Zona 4 or Shoreditch (the list goes on…). There were people posing for photo shoots and sharing Valentine’s Day meals.

I struck out with my first dinner choice, Canteen at Arts on Main, so after I browsed their shops, I kept looking. I ended up at The Blackanese and stuffing myself with sushi and cider. I’ve certainly spent worse Valentine’s Days and the biltong sushi was surprisingly tasty.

The next day I went on a tour of Soweto (more on that soon) and hopped the Gautrain to Pretoria. There’s so much I could have done in Johannesburg if I’d had better luck or time, but I’m pretty pleased with how it all turned out.

If You Go

Weekends are the best time to visit because there are festivals and concerts going on. Neighbourgoods Market came highly recommended, but I missed it by a day. My friend Rachel Travels lived in Johannesburg for a while and has some great suggestions, as does Adventurous Kate.

Johannesburg is frequently associated with crime, but most of it is limited for tourists. I took precautions like taking Uber as much as possible, even the 15-minute walk to the train station in the middle of the day. Rideshares are great because you don’t need to carry cash and some taxis won’t even pick you up.

Sometimes UberBlack is even cheaper! I was told not to answer a driver who asked where I was going in advance because then they can decide not to take you, which I later found to be true.

I also carried a small Herschel bag and left my electronics in my PacSafe Slingsafe locked up in my hostel. I also carried a small personal alarm. You can also take the very clean and efficient Gautrain from the airport starting at 44 rand.

What to Do in Johannesburg

I didn’t get around to a lot of things, but heard recommendations of the inner city tour and hop on hop off buses. In addition to what I previously mentioned, the Cradle of Humankind and Sterkfontein Caves, which are around 45 minutes from the city. They play an important role in archaeology. Top of Africa is an observation deck over the city that is very cheap to visit. Wits Art Museum has some unique exhibits from around the country.

Where to Stay in Johannesburg

I chose Once in Joburg, one of the few “luxury hostels” in Africa, because of its free breakfast, WiFi, Braamfontein location, and keycard entry (dorms from 180 rand). Obviously, things didn’t go according to plan, but the staff was very helpful and kind.

They also run city tours and have daily activities. Curiocity is the other popular option, located in Maboneng. Lebo’s in Soweto is hostel in the heart of the township with camping facilities, dorms, and plenty of activities.

Would you visit Johannesburg?