After a stressful stay in Johannesburg and an incredible tour through Kruger National Park and Swaziland, it was time to start the rest of my trip in Durban. I planned a few days in the coastal city to relax before hitting the road again, spending time with some friends from my tour.
I had nothing planned for my stay, just doing laundry and catching up on work, so I didn’t really research where to stay or what to do. I learned that Durban has one of the biggest populations of Indian people outside of India.
I ended up at the hostel my friends were staying at, which turned out to be in a good location but didn’t have the amenities I needed. But they did host a company party for Red Bull South Africa that we ended up crashing! It was nice to be able to unwind for a few days before I said goodbye to my new pals and started my solo journey.
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What to See and Do in Durban
I found a few things to do in Durban, but I ended up playing it all by ear. Our tour ended in Umhlanga, a suburb about 20 minutes north of Durban, so I went to the massive Gateway Mall there. It had plenty of stores to pick up essentials for the rest of the trip and restaurants. They also have an indoor climbing wall, movie theater, and surfing!
uShaka Marine World is the main attraction for most visitors to Durban, which has a bunch of shops and restaurants as well as a water park, playgrounds, and an aquarium. My friends went to get a massage here, so there’s a little bit of everything! I also went to the beach for my first dip in the Indian Ocean.
Everyone recommends the “Indian markets,” better known as Victoria Street Market. It’s the perfect place to pick up souvenirs, so don’t be afraid to ask what the best price is. You’ll find wood carvings, jewelry, and Indian spices.
Perhaps the craziest, or stupidest, thing my friends and I did was the Big Rush
There are a few things I didn’t end up doing but were offered.
Located in the former headquarters of the Native Administration Department, the KwaMhule Museum educates visitors on apartheid, specifically the system of labor control. Exhibits focus on what township life was like in Durban during that time.
The Holocaust and Genocide Centre honors those who perished during the Holocaust with a permanent exhibit, educational programs, and a garden of remembrance.
Durban also has a thriving arts scene. Durban Art Gallery was established in 1892 as the municipal gallery and features sculptures and paintings from South Africa. The Kwazulu Natal Society of the Arts features changing exhibitions of modern works.
Enjoy the subtropical plant life at the Durban Botanic Garden, which is Africa’s oldest surviving botanical gardens.
Where to Eat in Durban
What really surprised me about Durban was its incredible food scene. Influences from India and beyond make the cuisine flavorful and fresh seafood was a highlight for me. For our post-tour group dinner, we got all dolled up and went to Florida Road, a trendy neighborhood with lots of great restaurants. Mo-zam-bik was perfect for our needs and I had one of the best meals of the trip: peri peri prawns with coconut rice. I still dream of it!
Bunny Chow is the city’s signature dish, but is found in other places in South Africa. It’s essentially a curry served in a scooped out loaf of bread. They can be spicy or mild, depending on your needs, and incorporate different proteins. I went with chicken, which I shared with a friend because it was filling. The shops around Victoria Street Market are a good place to enjoy it!
I also took advantage of UberEats a few times in Durban. On a slightly hungover morning, my pals and I ordered smoothies from Kauai, a California-inspired chain in South Africa that has acai bowls, avocado toast, and other delicious and healthy items. I also got dinner one night from Afro’s Chicken Shop, a Durban favorite.
Durban also has a craft beer scene! My first hostel was conveniently located a few blocks from Robson’s, an incredible brewpub with a menu of elevated pub fare. I loved their Durban Pale Ale.
Where to Stay in Durban
I originally booked a few days at Happy Hippo in Durban Point, a hostel located right next to uShaka Marine World, but the Internet was way too slow for me. It wouldn’t have been a problem if I hadn’t had deadlines.
So for my final night, I switched to Curiocity Durban, a luxury hostel in the city. The location isn’t great, as it’s a bit unsafe, but it had all the amenities like fast free WiFi, a kitchen, and free breakfast. It’s also a BazBus stop.
Next time, I’d stay near Florida Road at somewhere like The Benjamin Hotel, which has a swimming pool, free breakfast, and free WiFi. It’s within walking distance of the area’s countless restaurants and bars.
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