Visiting the Cape Peninsula is a popular day trip when in Cape Town. The peninsula juts out from the city center to the Indian Ocean, home of the southernmost point of Africa. It’s a stunning natural area that feels far removed from the rest of Cape Town.
I looked at a few options before deciding what to do, but there are lots of tour options depending on how long you want to go. Most tours are a full day, while others include overnight stays. They usually include stops in Camps Bay, the Twelve Apostles, the Cape of Good Hope, and the Boulders Beach Penguin Colony. Kiff Kombi even has its own tour. They can be booked before you go or once you arrive at any travel agency.
I didn’t want to pay for a full day tour (like in the Blue Mountains) and didn’t feel comfortable renting a car and driving on the other side of the car and road. So that left few options. After a conversation with a friend that lives there, I decided on taking the train as far as I could. It limited what I was able to see, but allowed me to hit the highlights on the route.
I walked from my hostel to the Cape Town Railway Station. I asked for a ticket to Simons Town, but was told it would only go as far as Muizenberg. So that was what I got. I went to the platform and waited for a while before the train showed up. From there, it took almost another hour before we left.
Once I got off in Muizenberg, I found out that the train was in fact continuing to Simons Town. But I ended up walking from there to Kalk Bay and catching the train again there. On the way back, I took it directly from Simons Town to Cape Town.
I would recommend doing what I had intended, which is going all the way to Simons Town and hopping the train back, stopping along the way. Tickets varied greatly, even for short distances. It was 9 ZAR ($0.64) from Cape Town to Muizenberg, 10.50 ($0.75) from Kalk Bay to Simons Town, and 10 ($0.71) from Simons Town to Cape Town. Either way, it’s crazy cheap. Uber also operates in this area, but it is expensive to get there.
I felt relatively safe on the train. Lots of people got on and off, some selling snacks. I sat across from a girl in the Peace Corps who seemed to get around confidently. But on the way back, my train car had a lot of rowdy teenagers on board that hung out of the open door. I was fine but would recommend heading back before it gets dark. Start your day early if possible. If I hadn’t been traveling solo, I probably wouldn’t have thought anything about it.
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Muizenberg
My first stop was the cute beach area of Muizenberg, known for its colorful bathing boxes like those in Melbourne, Australia. It was around 45 minutes by train from the CBD. The majestic Victorian train station is a short walk from the shops and restaurants as well as the beach. This neighborhood is known for its surf schools. There are public restrooms and lockers at the beach. Muizenberg has great seafood restaurants like Live Bait and Carla’s Mozambique Cafe.
This area also has historic landmarks. Rhodes Cottage was the summer home of Cecil Rhodes, the mining magnate that founded the nation of Rhodesia (modern-day Zimbabwe) and the Rhodes Scholarship, and now serves as a museum.
The white painted Het Posthuys is the oldest building in South Africa, built for the Dutch East India Company. Casa Labia was built in 1929 for Count and Countess Natale Labia of Italy. You can see the area through the eyes of locals on the Muizenberg Free Walking Tour.
St. James Beach
You can talk the St. James Walkway to reach the town, which is around 15 minutes along the water. It reminded me of the Bondi to Coogee walk in Sydney. St. James Beach also has the colorful bathing boxes, but theirs are located along a rock pool. From here, you’ll have to cross back onto the main street to walk to Kalk Bay as the path ends. You can also take the train, but it’s not worth it for such a short trip.
This is a small community, but you can admire the impressive homes on the bluffs that have their own funiculars. It’s mostly residential, but there are a few bed and breakfasts and restaurants. Folk Cafe is a nice spot to grab a coffee before continuing your walk.
Kalk Bay
Kalk Bay wasn’t on my radar, but my friend mentioned a seafood restaurant that was a local favorite. That’s how I found myself walking a 20-minute walk further from St. James to Kalk Bay. From there, I got back on the train and went to the end.
Here I saw the gorgeous Dalebrook Tidal Pool, one of the rock pools at the beach. Kalk Bay is a destination in its own right with antique stores, cute cafes, and restaurants. I ate lunch at Kalky’s Fish and Chips, a cash-only seafood restaurant at the marina. My massive lunch of prawns and rice was 142 ZAR ($10). There’s also an outpost of Bootlegger Coffee and Kalk Bay Expresso.
I skipped Fish Hoek, Sunny Cove, and Glencairn because I was pressed for time. They also have nice beaches, restaurants, and hotels.
Simon’s Town
This is where the train ends so you’ll have to get off and it’s another 40-minute walk uphill from there to Boulders Beach. You can also take Uber if you need to, which I did on the way back. I didn’t find Simons Town as charming as the other places I’d visited that day, so I mostly skipped everything but the penguins, the main draw. But The Lighthouse Cafe and Monocle & Mermaid were both busy.
The Simons Town Museum informs visitors about the area’s past, including connections to the Dutch East India Company and the South African Navy. The South African Naval Museum nearby also offers information about the town. Hike to the grave of Just Nuisance, a dog that passed on messages for the Navy.
Boulder’s Beach Penguin Colony is a UNESCO World Heritage Site and costs 152 ZAR ($10.80) to get into, which includes two beach access points with elevated boardwalks. Expect it to be crowded unless you go as soon as they open. And it should go without saying, but be responsible and give the penguins their space as they’re endangered.
Each of these towns are close to nature preserves, hiking trails, and viewpoints, so bring your walking shoes. If you can, hitch a ride to see the Cape of Good Hope and the rest of the peninsula.
Where to Stay on the Cape Peninsula
If you want to stay for longer, look into accommodations in one of these areas.
Muizenberg
Stoked Backpackers is a stylish hostel with private rooms and dorms. It has a colorful mural and is a short walk from the beach. They have a rooftop and offer free WiFi and car hires to explore the peninsula.
The Muize is a top-rated bed and breakfast that offers free WiFi, free parking, and an airport shuttle. Rooms are affordable and have king or twin beds with shared or private bathrooms.
St. James Beach
Blue on Blue Bed and Breakfast is located alongside the mountain five minutes walk from the train station. Each room is decorated in a shade of blue.
The Lookout is a stylish vacation rental ideal for larger groups. The light-filled space has large windows showcasing ocean views, a chef style kitchen, and a pool.
Kalk Bay
Chartfield Guesthouse is located in three buildings with a spa, pool, and cozy rooms, some with balconies and ocean views. Breakfast is also available for a fee.
The Inn at Castle Hill is an Edwardian-style villa with stylish rooms, a large balcony, and artwork. Some rooms also have claw foot bathtubs and antiques.
Fish Hoek
Makapa Lodge is a forest getaway with a swimming pool, sprawling grounds, and nearby trails. Guests have access to breakfast and tea and coffee making facilities.
Glencairn
Hotel Glencairn is a cozy English-style inn with private baths, free WiFi, continental breakfast, and even a ping pong table. There are double and twin beds.
Simons Town
The Tides is located a short walk from Boulders Beach. All rooms have sea views, verandas, kitchenettes, and a complimentary continental breakfast spread.
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