The FAQ series is here to answer your burning questions about what it’s really like to travel certain areas solo or as a female. In this case, it’s South Africa, where I traveled for nearly a month in 2019. Some destinations are well trodden on the backpacker trail, while others require a bit more preparation.
It can be a bit intimidating for even experienced travelers due to its “dangerous” reputation, but there is a travel infrastructure. But with that said, there are a few things ladies should know before going to make their trip more enjoyable.
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Is it safe?
This is a question that can’t be easily answered because it varies greatly by the part of the country and the time you go. Overall, I would say I felt as safe as I do in my hometown of Atlanta most of my time in South Africa. The only times I got nervous was when I was carrying my DSLR or large amounts of cash, when I was wandering around Port Elizabeth, and when I was taking a train in Cape Town at dusk.
The crimes associated with South Africa tend to be carjackings and thefts in certain neighborhoods. Most travelers won’t be affected by this unless you’re driving or riding in a car that gets robbed. If someone wants to take something from you, absolutely give it to them. Items can be replaced.
Don’t forget about your safety around animals. Being around zoos back home can lull you into a false sense of security. The national parks like Kruger and “the bush” of South Africa are not like this. Animals will charge you if you get too close. Always travel with a ranger or guide.
You can also register with your embassy before arriving in South Africa because they will be able to assist you in getting out in case of a natural disaster or political crisis.
How can I avoid getting robbed or scammed?
As a part of safety, travelers are most likely to be the victims of petty crime like pickpocketing over every other type of crime. It should be common sense, but don’t keep expensive items out like your camera or smartphone. Stay aware in crowded places like markets. Don’t overindulge alone or make yourself vulnerable by leaving your drink unattended. If you’re going to an ATM, keep an eye on your surroundings when withdrawing cash. Most have armed guards anyways.
Items like a theft-proof bag, like my beloved PacSafe, and a personal alarm or whistle will help you feel more at ease. I’ve never used a money belt in my life but instead traveled with a fanny pack that tucked underneath my arm and looped around my chest.
What can I eat that won’t make me sick? What about the water?
As I’ve said before, food can make you sick just about anywhere, including in countries like Australia and the United States. The cities of South Africa have clean drinking water but rural areas are where you might need to be careful. I got sick from drinking tap water in Chintsa when brushing my teeth but it didn’t last long.
After that, I only filled up at the filtered water station in the kitchen. If you’re worried about it, bring some sort of water cleaning system like iodine tablets, a filtered bottle, or even a few drops of bleach.
Sickness from food isn’t common for the most part unless you have a sensitive stomach. I got food poisoning twice, once at a restaurant in Stellenbosch and another at the airport lounge in Johannesburg. So it can happen anywhere, not just from eating bush meat. Carry Pepto Bismol or some similar stomach medicine with you just in case.
Before you go, check with the CDC for what immunizations you’ll need. I brought malaria tablets but didn’t get any specific shots because mine were mostly up to date. Travel Insurance is encouraged for travel in this part of the world. I used World Nomads for my trip.
What if I don’t speak the language?
There are over 35 languages spoken in South Africa, including Afrikaans, Xhosa, and Zulu, along with smaller dialects. So there is no way for travelers to easily learn them. But the 11th official language is English. In most destinations, especially where tourism is a major industry, you will easily find someone to communicate with. If you’re worried about it, pick up a phrasebook in one of the languages for basic words.
How can I safely get around? Should I go with tours or independently?
There are many different ways to get around South Africa. It’s entirely possible to rent a car to drive around on your own, but keep in mind that drivers are on the opposite side of the car and the road. It can also be difficult to navigate while driving and you are at added risk of carjacking in cities.
There are also some South African bus operators that visit the major destinations for very cheap, usually less than $50 USD. Intercape and Greyhound are two of the most popular operators, but smaller companies connect with smaller destinations. This article from Lonely Planet is helpful. There are also trains that cross the country like the luxurious Blue Train. Seat 61 has information about rail operators in South Africa.
While not the cheapest option at around $180, the BazBus backpacker bus brings travelers in minibuses throughout the country, especially on the coast. Instead of stopping at bus stations, they go straight to hostels and hotels. Buses are enabled with WiFi and it’s a great place to meet fellow travelers. You can hop on and off at any stop or go round trip. They also have add-on tours.
Tours are another great way to travel if you want someone else to sort out the details while still meeting new people. I went with Acacia for my time in Kruger and to get to Durban, which I found on TourRadar for around $600 USD. They also have longer overland tours. My friends continued the journey west with a different operator. Intrepid Travel, G Adventures, and Nomad Africa have similar options or you can opt for an accommodated tour without the camping.
How much time should I spend there?
Like Australia, South Africa is a large country that is not easy to quickly get around. Even the places that look close together on the map take longer than you think to get there. Because of how long the flight takes, I would give it at least two weeks if not closer to a month to hit the highlights of Johannesburg, Kruger, and Cape Town.
It’s also nice to have time to relax along the Garden Route without rushing from one place to the next. If you’re traveling on the cheap, you can spend around $50 per day or less.
Should I stay in hotels or hostels?
During my month in South Africa, I stayed almost entirely in hostels because it’s the best way to meet other travelers. I mostly felt safe, despite the fact that many of the rooms didn’t lock. So I brought my own lock for my belongings. If you’re looking for privacy, choose a private room or opt for a hotel room.
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