Nicknamed the “city of angels,” Los Angeles, California was first settled by Native American tribes. The Spanish arrived in 1542, establishing missions throughout the state and eventually creating its current name. There was a period of Mexican rule that ended in the Mexican-American War when the region was added to the United States.
Hollywood became a city in 1903 and is responsible for much of the modern film industry to this day. But there’s more to the city than the movies as it is a hub for music and the arts. It feels like many cities combined, with pockets of neighborhoods tucked throughout the hills.
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The Neighborhoods of Los Angeles
Hollywood is perhaps the most well-known neighborhood, especially for first-time visitors to the city. This is where you’ll find landmarks like the Hollywood Walk of Fame, Grauman’s Chinese Theater, and Hollywood Forever Cemetery. It’s also where you can go on the Paramount Pictures Studio Tour.
There are some old-school eateries and bars here like the Frolic Room. The Evening Walking Tour Sips of Hollywood Including Street Food and Drinks visits some of the neighborhood hotspots.
Often forgotten by travelers, Downtown is home to modern LA alongside longtime landmarks. The Grammy Museum, The Broad, and the Museum of Contemporary Art are all here. Get your Instagram shots at the OUE Skyspace or browse the aisles of The Last Bookstore. Enjoy the old-school restaurants like Cole’s French Dip or sip a cocktail where generations of Angelenos have before at The King Eddy.
Santa Monica and Venice are neighboring areas with the closest beaches. Santa Monica has a popular weekly farmers market and its iconic pier is the end of Route 66. Venice is more funky with its beachfront Muscle Beach and dispensaries. Abbot Kinney Boulevard is lined with trendy shops and restaurants, not to mention murals begging to be photographed. A 3-hour Food Tour in Venice Beach, Los Angeles is a good way to see it.
Santa Monica 
Downtown
West Hollywood is considered to be “new Hollywood” and is one of the city’s LGBTQ neighborhoods. It’s technically its own city, complete with a mayor, and is home to the famous Sunset Strip. Catch a live music act at iconic venues like the Viper Room and Whisky a Go Go. More recently, it’s been made famous by Sur Restaurant, featured on various Bravo shows.
The Arts District is tucked between downtown and the Los Angeles River. Similar to Miami’s Wynwood District, this area used run-down warehouses and turned them into artist lofts and studios. Hauser & Wirth is one of many galleries in this neighborhood. There are also great restaurants and bars, including House of Machines (which also has a Cape Town location), Nightshade, and Arts District Brewing Company.
Koreatown is a popular place to live and explore within the city, especially for its food scene. The Korean community immigrated here in the 1960s. Today it has trendy hotels like The LINE Hotel along with restaurants like Eight Korean BBQ and KyoChon. Visitors can also visit the late-night karaoke bars and nightclubs.
Los Angeles Restaurants and Cafes
Los Angeles has an incredible food scene, representing the cuisines of countless countries. No matter what part of the city you’re in, you’re sure to find something delicious.
Grand Central Market– Open since 1917, this now-stylish food hall has a little bit of everything from Mexican to pizza to burgers to a Jewish deli. I personally loved my fish tacos. There’s even a coffee shop and brewery inside.
Din Tai Fung– Los Angeles is lucky enough to have multiple outposts of this Taiwanese restaurant including one in Century City. They’re known for their xiao long bao, also known as soup dumplings. But there are also noodles, soups, and pork dishes.
Philippe The Original– It’s not the only French dip in town, but it is the best, available in beef, lamb, pork, and more. Located in Chinatown, they also serve breakfast, salads, and soups.
The Mission Cantina– I dined at this Hollywood Mexican restaurant during my 2011 visit and enjoyed the margaritas. They’re known for their authentic tacos that are $1 on Tuesdays and the chapel-like building.
Kim Chuy– Located at a Chinatown mall, this is one of many delicious options. Here you can enjoy dumplings, egg rolls, leek cakes, and other specialties from the Teochew region.
Tacos Por Favor– There is no shortage of taco spots in LA but this one has excellent breakfast burritos at their three locations in Santa Monica and Venice.
Rossoblu– Handmade pasta and carefully selected wines make this Fashion District popular. The tortellini and orecchiette pasta are among the favorites but there are also entrees like chicken and steak.
Philippe: The Original 
Tacos Por Favor 
Din Tai Fung
Roscoe’s Chicken and Waffles– The Hollywood institution has eight locations in total and is open from early in the morning until late in the night. Soul food dishes are named for their famous customers but don’t miss their namesake item.
Sunny Spot– The Venice breakfast spot is known for its bottomless mimosas and Bloody Marys, French toast, and grain bowls. They also have weekend brunch and weekday happy hour.
The Rose– Another Venice restaurant, this one was packed on a Saturday. The bohemian space open since 1979 has a popular patio and breakfast, sandwiches, and pizzas.
Go Get Em Tiger– Start your day at this coffee shop in Larchmont with coffee drinks and light breakfast items like breakfast sandwiches, grain bowls, and salads.
Openaire at The Line LA– You’ve likely seen this greenhouse-style restaurant in Koreatown online. It’s open for breakfast, lunch, dinner, and brunch as well as happy hour. Menu highlights include tuna tataki salad and duck tagliatelle.
Dayglow– The minimalist Silverlake coffee shop features neon signs and funky furniture. They sell coffee drinks from a variety of roasters as well as coffee equipment to use at home.
Birdies– Located downtown, the all-natural restaurant serves coffee, fresh-made funky doughnuts, and fried chicken. On weekends, they’re open 24 hours.
The King Eddy
Los Angeles Bars and Nightlife
This fun loving city has all sorts of watering holes from old-school dives and speakeasies to craft breweries to swanky cocktail bars. Prices are higher than in other cities, so expect to pay $15 and up for a craft cocktail.
The King Eddy– It’s like drinking at a museum when visiting this Skid Row icon. Everyone from Charles Bukowski to James E. Cain to Kiefer Sutherland hung out here since its opening in 1906, including during Prohibition.
Broken Shaker– Set atop the Freehand, the award-winning bar has bohemian furnishings and serves tropical food and drink like the daily punch and Swedish Bikini Team, pictured.
The Varnish– This speakeasy in the former storage room of Cole’s, a restaurant dating back to 1908, is dimly lit and serves incredible drinks. Ask the bartender for cocktail suggestions.
Golden Gopher– Don’t let the vintage sign fool you at the saloon bought by Teddy Roosevelt in 1905. The bar interior looks brand new with an outdoor patio and a menu of cocktails and beer with daily specials.
Good Times at Davey Wayne’s– The funky Hollywood bar looks like a 70s garage sale that you enter through a fridge door. They serve boozy snow cones and have a bar inside an Airstream trailer.
Broken Shaker 
The Varnish
Pearl’s Rooftop– The photogenic West Hollywood bar has weekly happy hour, dinner, and brunch. They have mezcal and tequila cocktails along with wine.
No Vacancy– The hotel-inspired bar in Hollywood is a nod to the most glamorous days of the city. Enjoy live entertainment with your classic cocktail. There’s a dress code so wear your best.
Frolic Room– The famous Hollywood bar has been frequented by countless celebs like Frank Sinatra, Judy Garland, and the “Black Dahlia” Elizabeth Short.
Del Monte Speakeasy– Set in a 1915 building in Venice, it was once a grocery store with a real Prohibition speakeasy. Today it’s accessible by all with live entertainment along with beer, wine, and cocktails.
Breweries- Los Angeles is a surprising place for craft beer but the city has a number of breweries including Angel City, Highland Park, and Smog City. Each offers something different.
A Note About Dispensaries: Like in Denver, Marijuana is legal in California, 18 and older with a medical note and 21 and older for recreational uses. You’ll find dispensaries all over town but quality varies. Med Men has multiple locations and helpful staff.
Things to Do in Los Angeles
Most travelers come to Los Angeles to see the movie star-themed attractions, but there’s a lot more to see. Give yourself plenty of time to explore in this spread-out city.
Griffith Park– This sprawling space is home to the iconic Griffith Observatory, hikes to the Hollywood sign, a bird sanctuary, and the abandoned Los Angeles Zoo.
Runyon Canyon Hiking Tour– This guided hike is another way to see views of Hollywood and beyond, including some of the area’s most sought after houses.
La Brea Tar Pits– Natural asphalt trapped animals tens of thousands of years ago, preserving their bones. Today they are displayed in a museum but there are also active pits with digs going on.
LACMA– The Los Angeles County Museum of Art has contemporary installations including the “Urban Light” piece. Exhibits include photography, paintings, and more.
The Broad– The city’s newest downtown art museum has rotating modern exhibits. Among their exhibits are the Infinity Rooms and Jeff Koons sculptures.
The Getty– The massive, and free, museum in the hills above Brentwood has American and European art from medieval times to the present. Don’t miss the sprawling gardens.
Museum of Death– Not for the faint of heart, this Hollywood museum has exhibits on famous serial killers with their belongings, cult leaders like Charles Manson, and local crimes like the Black Dahlia.
Grammy Museum– The interactive museum honors the music legends honored by the industry awards. Highlights include awards show attire, iconic performances, and information about the recording industry.
Museum of Death 
La Brea Tar Pits
Theme parks- Disneyland and Universal Studios Hollywood are close to downtown LA. Disneyland is made up of two parks, while Universal has one.
Cemeteries- Forest Lawn Cemetery and Hollywood Forever are both the final resting place of countless celebrities and industry members like Lucille Ball, Liberace, and Charlie Chaplin.
Studio tours- Visit the home of your favorite movies and television shows with a studio tour. The Warner Bros. Hollywood Studio Tour with Optional Movie Stars’ Homes Tour is what I did to see the sets of Friends, Gilmore Girls, and Veronica Mars.
OUE Skyspace- This trendy rooftop attraction at the US Bank Tower has 360-degree views of the city, a multi-story slide, and a bar. Get your Skip-The-Line OUE Skyspace Los Angeles Admission with Optional Skyslide before you go.
Watts Towers– The decorated steel towers are one of the most recognizable landmarks in the city. They offer guided tours of the art installation every week.
Improv shows- See the next generation of comedians at a performance of a local improv troupe. Upright Citizen’s Brigade and The Groundlings are two of the most well-known.
Esotouric– I was lucky enough to go on a film noir tour with this company in 2011. They have the preeminent tours of the city, especially the true crime tours featuring the Black Dahlia, music culture, and literary history.
True Crime History Tour of Los Angeles– If that wasn’t enough, this tour visits locations from the city’s most gruesome crimes, separating fact from fiction.
Free walking tour- Free Tours by Foot offers free walking tours of the city, but tips are encouraged. They also have standard paid tours about true crime sites and filming locations.
Shopping in Los Angeles
Browse one of LA’s unique shops, selling everything from vintage clothing to records to artwork and everything in between. Don’t miss the many maker’s markets that take place all over town.
The Last Bookstore– Seen many times on film, this sprawling downtown bookstore covers all sorts of genres. There’s also a section with records and an upstairs area with jewelry and craft vendors.
Book Soup– Another favorite LA bookstore is this one in West Hollywood. They host frequent author events and carry signed copies from your favorite writers.
Amoeba Music– The world’s largest independent record store is a Hollywood icon. Shop here for albums from well-known and indie artists. They also have in-store performances.
Fred Segal– As mentioned in the film Clueless, this department store in West Hollywood sells designer clothes for men and women, paper goods, cosmetics, and gifts.
Abbot Kinney Boulevard- This strip in Venice has flagship stores for and Show Me Your Mumu as well as an outpost of Alternative Apparel. There are also smaller boutiques.
The Bloc 
Westfield Century City
Malls- Los Angeles has plenty of shopping centers with well-known chains. Westfield Century City has Anthropologie, Cotton On, H&M, and even Eataly!
The Bloc– This open-air plaza above the Metro station has a Macy’s, Nordstrom Local, and Uniqlo. They host concerts outside and have restaurants.
The Grove– This famous outdoor mall has stores like Athleta, Madewell, and Shinola as well as dozens of restaurants. They also host pop up shops and events like yoga.
The Closet Trading Company– In Santa Monica, you can shop for pre-owned designer clothing at this upscale consignment store. They also carry shoes and accessories.
Where to Stay in Los Angeles
There is no shortage of stylish places to stay around Los Angeles, but be prepared to pay top dollar. Pick a centrally located property that has easy access to public transportation.
Freehand Los Angeles– The 1924 Commercial Exchange Building was restored to become this trendy hostel and hotel with locations in Miami, Chicago, and New York. Dorm guests get daily breakfast. There’s also a fitness center, coffee shop, restaurant, and popular rooftop bar and pool.
USA Hostels– I stayed at the hostel in Hollywood, which is a short walk from all the attractions. They have free breakfast, a beach shuttle, and daily tours and events. Dorms and private rooms are available.
Ace Hotel– The stylish downtown hotel has design-focused rooms of varying sizes, including some with terraces. They have a coffee shop, restaurant, and rooftop bar as well as a 1920s theater for events.
The Garland– Located near Universal Studios and Warner Brothers, this midcentury-inspired hotel has a trolley that drops off at CityWalk and the Metro station. They have their own restaurant with a cozy patio.
The LINE Hotel– The Koreatown hotel has a pool, coffee shop, restaurant, and bar. Their rooms are designed by a husband and wife team and have floor to ceiling windows overlooking the city.
Ace Hotel 
The Wayfarer
Hotel Figueroa– The original downtown hotel once hosted the Black Dahlia but today has been renovated for modern guests. The 1926 Spanish Colonial design has over 200 rooms and suites, two award-winning restaurants, and cocktail bars.
The Standard– Fans of Sex and the City remember this hotel as where the gang stayed during their trip. There are locations in Hollywood and downtown with over 200 sleek rooms, restaurants, and pools.
Hotel Erwin– Venice’s boutique hotel has been open for decades with funky furnishings, rooms with beachfront balconies, a restaurant, and rooftop lounge.
The Wayfarer– This soon-to-open hotel downtown has fun and pet-friendly rooms, fast WiFi, and both private and bunk rooms. There’s also a bar, restaurant, and coffee shop.
Airbnb- Rent a room or house in one of LA’s neighborhoods for the local experience. Get a discount off your first stay here.
Transportation in Los Angeles
Most travelers arrive in the city at Los Angeles International Airport, also known as LAX, which is around 40 minutes from the city without traffic. You can get into the city by Shared Airport Departure Transfer: Los Angeles Hotels to LAX International Airport, Super Shuttle, rideshare, or public transportation. There are also airports in Burbank, Long Beach, and Santa Ana. You can also get to the city by Amtrak or long-distance bus.
Getting around Los Angeles is infamously difficult. But it doesn’t have to be. I don’t recommend driving because of chaotic highways, all day traffic, and a lack of free parking around town. Some neighborhoods are better than others for getting around by car, on foot, and by bike. However, if you’ve never driven in a big city, do not drive in LA. Travel Insurance is a wise purchase either way.
The city has rental bikes from Metro Bike Share and scooters, including from Lime and Bird. Rideshare is one of the best ways to get around the city by Uber or Lyft. Get a free ride on Lyft by entering the code “CAROLINE868074”.
Los Angeles also has public transportation including buses and trains. The buses service the largest amount of neighborhoods, but the Metro train makes fewer stops. Get a TAP card that can be used on both. Each ride costs $1.75.
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