Caroline in the City Guide to Memphis

Memphis, Tennessee is known for its ties to music as the home of Elvis Presley and where artists like Otis Redding, Johnny Cash, and many others recorded at its studios.

It’s home to important events in the Civil Rights Movement. It’s where there aren’t just ribs, but “Memphis-style ribs.” The city sits on the Mississippi River in view from the border with Arkansas.

It has many neighborhoods beyond the tourist-centric downtown where residents are creating their own spaces, including craft breweries, historic buildings turned apartments, and even mini food halls.

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Memphis Neighborhoods

Memphis is set around the river and its neighborhoods spread out into a circle around the highway. Most of the attractions are downtown, including the famed Beale Street, the National Civil Rights Museum, and watering holes like Earnestine and Hazel’s. Sports fans flock to the FedEx Forum for Grizzlies games. The nearby Edge District is to the east and is home to historic Sun Studio and Edge Alley.

The Cooper-Young neighborhood is one of the trendiest in the city with centuries-old buildings and homes, stylish shops, and restaurants. Sip on craft beer at Memphis Made Brewing Company or a glass of wine at Knifebird. Young Avenue Deli is a longtime favorite as is Muddy’s Bake Shop.

Binghampton is in Midtown Memphis and named for an Irish immigrant and local entrepreneur. It was previously a blue-collar neighborhood that is seeing revitalization. These days it has a number of colorful murals and a regular art walk. The area is near Overton Park and restaurants like Bounty on Broad.

East Memphis neighbors Binghampton and the University of Memphis. It has a number of parks including Audubon Park and Shelby Farms. The area also has some of the city’s best barbecue restaurants including Corky’s, One & Only, and Elwood’s Shack.

Memphis Restaurants and Cafes

Memphis might be associated mostly with barbecue, but there’s a surprising amount of diversity in the food scene with vegan eateries and international dishes.

The Arcade Restaurant– Said to be a favorite of Elvis, Memphis’ oldest restaurant opened in 1919 by a Greek immigrant. Stop by for breakfast of sweet potato pancakes and beignets or a catfish sandwich for lunch. 

The Beauty Shop– Named for the former beauty shop it inhabits, it still retains its 1950s decor. The menu includes dishes like pork chops with pickled peaches and bacon-wrapped steak frites. They’re open for lunch, dinner, and Sunday brunch. 

Central BBQ– Another favorite is Central, which has multiple locations and usually has a line. The wait is worth it, especially for the platter, which has ribs, pulled pork and brisket with sides. 

Corky’s Ribs & BBQ– Dry rub ribs are one of Memphis’ most famous dishes and while there is a debate about the best place to get them, my favorite is Corky’s. In addition to ribs, you can get barbecue sandwiches and all the fixings, like macaroni and cheese or mashed potatoes.

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Edge Alley– Open for breakfast, lunch, and dinner, they serve coffee by day and wine by night. Enjoy dishes like avocado toast, shrimp and grits, and hamburgers.

Flying Fish– Judging by the dozens of Billy Bass nailed to the wall, the specialty of this restaurant is fish. Their fried catfish and po boys are an affordable alternative to some of the overpriced fare closer to Beale Street. 

Global Cafe at Crosstown Concourse– This former Sears building has a number of eateries, but this refugee-owned food court of sorts features cuisines from Nepal, Syria, and Sudan. They also have a bar. 

Hog & Hominy– Named one of the best restaurants in the city, this place combines Italian dishes with Southern ingredients. Menu highlights include wood-fired pizzas and biscuit gnocchi in a rich meat sauce.

Imagine Vegan– It’s not all about meat in Memphis. This Cooper-Young restaurant has Southern-inspired dishes that are plant-based. Try the macaroni and cheese, “chicken” and waffles, and the Beyond burger.

The Liquor Store– Don’t let the name fool you. This restaurant has all-day breakfast, sandwiches, soups, and salads. There’s also a full bar if you need a tipple.

Marlowe’s Ribs & Restaurant– The restaurant near Graceland first opened in 1974. They’re known for barbecue, ribs, and The King’s favorite, peanut butter and banana sandwiches.

The Second Line– For a taste of Louisiana in the Bluff City, look no further than this restaurant, named for the famous New Orleans parades. Menu highlights include barbecue shrimp, po boys, and Mississippi catfish, prepared a variety of ways. Don’t miss live music on their patio. 

Sunrise– Breakfast is served all day at this Victorian Village restaurant. It’s known for its biscuit breakfast sandwiches, grits bowls, omelettes, and tacos.

Restaurant Iris– Kelly English’s Iris has creative cuisine like beer-battered halloumi, local mushroom couscous risotto, and a Greek-inspired braised short rib. 

Memphis Bars and Nightlife

This fun-loving city has all sorts of watering holes from old-school dives and speakeasies to craft breweries to swanky cocktail bars. And don’t forget about the music venues!

Alchemy– Come for brunch and shared plates but stay for the music-themed cocktails like the Hound Dog, named for native son Elvis’ hit song. They also have an extensive whiskey list.

Bounty on Broad– Enjoy the craft cocktails and impressive whiskey selection at this restaurant in the Broad Avenue Arts District. They also have a popular weekend brunch.

Earnestine and Hazel’s– This juke joint and former brothel is reportedly haunted, but what it’s really known for its the Soul Burger. The hamburger comes topped with onions, cheese, pickles, and “soul sauce.” Pair with a cheap beer for the full experience.

Flight Wine Bar– Located in the Broadnax Building downtown, this restaurant and wine bar has labels from around the world as well as seafood and steaks.

Hernando’s Hideaway– The venue where Elvis and countless other played recently reopened. It still operates as a bar and venue for local bands but also has a menu of craft beer and burgers.

Old Dominick Distillery– A part of the Tennessee Whiskey Trail, this distillery has been open for over 200 years and crafts gin, vodka, and whiskey. Stop by for a tour and tasting.

Rum Boogie Cafe– Beale Street has an abundance of bars with cheap beer and live music but Rum Boogie is a favorite. They have live music and guitars signed by notable musicians.

Paula & Raiford’s Disco– The old school club has been open for over 40 years downtown. The neon-lit space stays open late into the night and even has its own limo service.

Loflin Yard– This bar and restaurant is on the grounds of an old warehouse with an outdoor patio. Enjoy shared plates and barrel-aged cocktails that change regularly.

Tiger and Peacock– The rooftop bar at the Memphian hotel has indoor and outdoor space, with whimsical decor and cocktails inspired by astrological signs.

Breweries- Memphis has a surprising craft beer scene including Crosstown, Wiseacre, Ghost River, and High Cotton. See them (safely) on the Memphis Brew Bus.

Things to Do in Memphis

Most of the landmarks in the city are related to music. Even if it’s not your genre of choice, you can’t miss these important places. The Memphis Music Attraction Discount Pass is a good way to see it all.

Belz Museum of Asian and Judaic Art– Opened in 1998 with the private collection of the Peabody Hotel owners, it contains over 1,000 items including pieces dating back to the Qing dynasty.

Brooks Museum of Art– Founded in 1916, it’s the oldest and largest art museum in the state of Tennessee. The collection includes paintings, photographs, and decorative arts.

Graceland– The former home of Elvis Presley, has truly unique decorating style. Check out the famous “Jungle Room” as well as his recording studio and collection of cars and jets, narrated on the iPad tour by John Stamos. Book your Elvis Presley’s Graceland Tour before you go.

Memphis Rock n Soul Museum– The Smithsonian-affiliated museum tells the story of how Memphis became such an important city for music and the people that made it happen. Get your Memphis Rock ‘n’ Soul Museum Admission before you go.

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Memphis Music Hall of Fame– Established in 2012, this place honors the city’s musicians and industry members. Inductees include BB King, Roy Orbison, Carla Thomas, and Three 6 Mafia. Get your Memphis Music Hall of Fame Admission Ticket before you go.

National Civil Rights Museum– Even if you don’t visit the Civil Rights Museum, you can see the facade of the Lorraine Motel as it looked in 1968 where Martin Luther King Jr. was shot from the second-floor balcony. A wreath hangs in remembrance. 

Stax Museum of American Soul Music– This former recording studio is where countless legends were made, including songs by Carla Thomas, Otis Redding, and Booker T and the MGs. Explore this interactive museum and listen to the music that was made here. Get your Stax Museum of American Soul Music Admission before you go.

Sun Studio– Considered to be the birthplace of rock and roll, Sam Phillips fostered the careers of names like Elvis Presley and Johnny Cash at this humble recording studio. Tour the space where they played, which still serves as a place to make music. Book your Sun Studio Guided Tour before you go.

Taste of Downtown Memphis Food Tour– Visit some of the Bluff City’s best eateries on this walking tour, eating dishes like barbecue nachos, hot tamales, and dessert.

Shopping in Memphis

Browse one of the city’s unique shops, selling everything from vintage clothing to records to artwork and everything in between.

Broad Avenue Arts District– This neighborhood has a number of independent boutiques and shops like Mbabzi House of Style, Falling Into Place, and Paper and Clay.

The Broom Closet– Memphis even has its own metaphysical supplies store selling tarot cards, gemstones, and candles. They also provide readings.

Flashback– Opened in 1985, the antique store has vintage furnishings, housewares, and clothing from the 1920s to the 80s.

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Novel– This incredible independent bookstore in East Memphis has selections from every genre (including mine!) as well as author events and a bar and restaurant.

Shangri-La Records– One of the best places to shop for records is the unassuming house in Midtown. There’s a great selection of Memphis artists, including Sun Studio and Stax musicians.

South Main Sounds– Part record store and part music venue, you never know who you might see here!

Vibe & Dime– The non-profit run shop sells everything from vinyl to clothing to home decor to gifts. They also have instruments and everything you need to start a band yourself.

Where to Stay in Memphis

There is no shortage of stylish places to stay around Memphis, whether downtown or in its cool neighborhoods.

ARRIVE Memphis– Like with the property in Wilmington, this stylish boutique hotel has a bustling coffee shop, a trendy cocktail bar, and a restaurant and bar with games. 

The Central Station Memphis, Curio Collection By Hilton– Set in the former Memphis train station, the stylish hotel has a lobby with a DJ spinning tunes from Soulsville and beyond. It’s also home to Bishop, one of the city’s best restaurants. 

Guest House at Graceland– This hotel features Elvis-inspired touches as well as nightly movies, live music, and a shuttle to Beale Street and Graceland. There’s also a swimming pool and two onsite restaurants. 

Hotel Indigo Memphis Downtown– Located in the heart of downtown, there are king and queen rooms midcentury-inspired decor. Guests also have access to the swimming pool, fitness center, and WiFi. Parking is available for an additional fee.

Hotel Napoleon– Only five minutes from Beale Street, this historic property features cozy bathrobes, flat-screen televisions, and a la carte breakfast. There are king and queen bedrooms as well as a fitness center. 

Hu Hotel– This gorgeous boutique hotel features free WiFi, a business center, a fitness center, and restaurants, including a coffee shop and a rooftop bar. They have king, queen, and double rooms and suites with modern furnishings. 

The Memphian– The new hotel in Overton Square is bursting with color, from the artwork in the lobby to the disco room in the rooftop bar. There’s also a downstairs restaurant and a fitness center.

Peabody Hotel– The timeless property is a member of the Historic Hotels of America and namesake to the famous Peabody Ducks. Don’t miss the exhibits on the hotel’s history and the rooftop. Rooms are comfortable and spacious. 

Rentals- Spend the night at one of the city’s historic homes through listings on sites like Airbnb.

Transportation in Memphis

Travelers can arrive by flights into Memphis International Airport services flights from all over the United States, mostly via American Airlines, Delta and United. It’s around 15 minutes drive from downtown and serviced by local buses.

Memphis is also accessible via rail on Amtrak, which arrives at Central Station a few blocks south of Beale Street. The city is on the City of New Orleans route that runs between Chicago and New Orleans. Megabus and Greyhound have stops here as well at the MATA North End Terminal building and Memphis Bus Station, respectively.

It’s also an easy drive from a number of destinations. Interstates 55 and 40 access the city and I-240 runs the perimeter of Memphis, which is located 3 hours from Nashville and 6 hours from Atlanta.

Much of the downtown area of Memphis is pedestrian-friendly, particularly Beale Street, which isn’t open to cars most days, allowing visitors to walk, with drinks in hand, from bar to bar.

As with many old Southern cities, parking can be hard to come by. If you’re staying at a hotel that has its own parking, it’s best to leave your car there and walk or take the bus to other locations. You won’t need a car for most places in Memphis, as you can take a shuttle to attractions like Graceland.

The Memphis Area Transit Authority (MATA) operates buses and the streetcar. The trolley runs in three lines through downtown, including stops at the North End Terminal Megabus stop, Central Station Amtrak stop and Cleveland Station at the Medical Center.

One-way trips are $1.00 per section, with day and week passes available. The buses cover dozens of routes to reach every part of town, including the airport. Bus fares start at $1.75 and only accept exact change. There’s also bike shares from Explore Bike Share.

If you don’t have a car while visiting Memphis but don’t want to take public transportation, or need a ride home from Beale Street at night, take advantage of the city’s taxi services. Yellow Cab is the most popular choice. Rideshare is one of the best ways to get around the city by Uber or Lyft. Get a free ride on Lyft by entering the code “CAROLINE868074”. 

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