How to Spend a Week in Belize’s Cayes

When it came time for my first post-pandemic vacation (or rather, post-shutdown), I knew I wanted to go somewhere warm that I could really relax in, not rush from one destination to another. When a cheap fare to Belize came through my inbox from Scott’s Cheap Flights, it was meant to be. A friend shared some recommendations, as did a few Facebook groups, but otherwise, I figured everything out as I went.

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Getting to the Islands

Travelers flock to the cayes from the western side of Belize as well as Mexico and Guatemala beyond. Ferries and flights are the two best ways to get to the islands. I weighed them both and decided to fly into Ambergris and ferry back to Belize City. I booked with Maya Air and my flight was about $70.

It’s cheaper to fly through the municipal airport, but I didn’t want to bother with a cab. Instead, I walked out of the terminal, checked my bag, and went back to the gate. I even got a beer while I waited, but I ended up getting on an earlier flight and had to toss most of it.

If you’re taking the ferry, be sure to check the hours beforehand as during my visit, two of the ones in the afternoon weren’t running. I bought tickets in advance, but found that it wasn’t really necessary if you get there early enough. And if you can, buy a round trip ticket, which is cheaper.

San Pedro Express leaves from near the cruise terminal in Belize City. The area doesn’t have much going when cruises aren’t in town, but if you need to spend the night, I recommend Harbour View Boutique Hotel & Yoga Retreat. It’s a short walk from the dock and has two outdoor pools and a restaurant.

Ambergris Caye

The larger Ambergris Caye is where I started my trip, flying directly from Belize City into San Pedro town. I was able to walk from the airport to my accommodations, passing the busy streets full of golf carts. If you’re in need of services like SIM cards, the ATM, or a laundromat, this is the best place to start. The island doesn’t get the same love as other cayes, but there are some charms here as well.

What to Do on Ambergris Caye

In terms of “things to do,” it all depends on how you want to spend your time. There are plenty of scuba diving and snorkeling tours, including to Hol Chan and the Blue Hole. The same ones are offered from Caye Caulker, so it depends on how much time you want to spend on a boat.

Deep sea fishing is also an option as well as spearfishing barracuda and other fish. Message @jasonzetina on Instagram for a great guide! During some parts of the year, tours go to Goff’s Caye, a private island nearby. Take a yoga class, go on a food tour of San Pedro, and shop at the artisan market.

The biggest thing to do is to visit the “Secret Beach,” which I’ll devote an entire post to. It takes about an hour to reach by golf cart (or an expensive taxi) and there are dozens of beach bars where you can relax and drink. My friend History Fan Girl has a good guide.

Where to Eat on Ambergris Caye

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I will admit that I was very surprised at how good the food was in San Pedro and the wide variety of options! On my first day, I had a casual early dinner at Palapa Bar and Grill, right near my hostel, and enjoyed the fish tacos and cocktails before a quick dip in the water. It’s popular with Americans as there are flags from universities.

I have a talent for finding bagels everywhere I go and Belize was no different. Brooklyn Brothers Bagel Shop has two locations in town, including one upstairs at the airport where I got a tasty sesame bagel. Izzy’s Smoothies, Snacks & Juice Bar is a popular spot for a quick bite, where I got a smoothie and an egg and ham fryjack.

El Fogon was one of the best meals I had on the island, serving traditional Belizean fare. I had a lovely shrimp, rice, and vegetable dish. Lavish Habit Cafe had great breakfast paninis that were easy to grab before heading to the ferry.

Among the other recommended spots I didn’t make it to are Hurricanes, Blue Water Grill, Neri’s Tacos, Estel’s Dine By the Sea, Pupuseria Salvadoreno, Ramen 501, and Elvi’s Kitchen.

Where to Drink

I didn’t do much in the way of partying in San Pedro, just a few casual beers. I did go to The Truck Stop on my way back from Secret Beach. It’s a sprawling complex made of shipping containers with live music, a beer garden, and a pool where they play movies.

303 Bar is a casual waterfront bar with ski-inspired decor. I also didn’t make it to Sunset Lounge, one of the only rooftop bars in town.

Where to Stay

Before leaving home, I booked my stay at Drift Inn, which I’d read about online as a well-located and laid-back hostel/guesthouse. I was very pleased with my private room, which had A/C and a private bathroom. The property also had a kitchen, a plunge pool, access to another larger pool, bike rentals, and daily coffee.

Costa Blu Beach Resort, Akbol Yoga Retreat and Eco-Resort, Alaia Belize, Autograph Collection, and Xanadu Island Resort are other options.

Caye Caulker

If you ask someone that has been, they probably prefer the laid-back vibes of this island. The streets are unpaved and sandy and everything runs on a different schedule. I’ll admit that after a day or so, I wondered how I’d entertain myself. But I finally relaxed and enjoyed the island life. If you’re short on time, you can also do Caye Caulker as a day trip.

What to Do

I booked two nights to start and ended up adding on time so I wasn’t originally sure how I’d spend my days. I knew I wanted to take a snorkeling tour of Hol Chan and Shark Ray Alley. Salt Life Eco Tours came recommended and I had a great time.

I also treated myself to a massage Ix’Chel Day Spa (can’t recommmend enough!) and a donation yoga class at Namaste (tip from Alex in Wanderland!), where I met two fellow Georgia gals. I also ended up renting a bike to explore the island and swimming and drinking at The Lazy Lizard. Iguana Reef Inn has feedings of stingrays daily.

I stopped by the animal shelter to meet the critters up for adoption and checked out Belize Chocolate Company as well as art galleries like Old Salt, owned by a former Charlestonian. I also did the Sunday Funday sunset cruise at Bella’s Backpackers. It was fun (and included endless rum punch) but it definitely caters to the party crowd.

Where to Eat

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The seafood in Caye Caulker is unmatched so I did my best to eat it as much as possible. I started with the fried lobster at Sip N Dip, which I enjoyed in between dips in the water. Later, I had whole lobster with coleslaw and rice at Steve’s Grill that I watched being cooked. But go early as there are only five or so tables!

Maggie’s Sunset Kitchen had great views of the sunset and tasty seafood specials, but bring bug spray! I also at at the taco stall at Calle la Posa, which sets up for lunch and dinner. Ice and Beans is also perfect for an iced coffee and breakfast!

Errolyn’s House Of Fryjacks and Dee N D’s Waterside Grill were recommended, but I didn’t make it to either.

Where to Drink

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If it’s a spot to drink with a view you’re after, you’ll definitely find it. Pelican Sunset was one of my favorite spots for a drink, followed by The Lazy Lizard and Iguana Reef Inn. But the “party scene” is mostly nonexistent. Spots like I and I Reggae Bar and Sports Bar are popular.

Where to Stay

After two nights at a very rustic spot, I switched to the much more comfortable Go Slow Guesthouse not far from the Split. My room had air conditioning and a private bathroom. There was also a kitchen and bike rentals, along with plentiful hammocks.

Comfortably Numb is an eco-friendly rental on the quiet southside of the island. Colinda Cabanas has conveniently located cabanas with filtered water, coffee, and rentals of snorkeling gear and bikes.

Have you been to Ambergris Caye or Caye Caulker?

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