During my time in Ambergris Caye, I heard lots about the “Secret Beach” on the northern side of the island. Because I was traveling alone, I couldn’t exactly justify the cost of a solo taxi ride or to rent a golf cart for the day. So instead, I rented a bike from my guesthouse for $10 and headed that way. I wouldn’t necessarily recommend this plan as it is a real commitment, but it is possible.
I had a hearty breakfast of a ham and egg fryjack and a smoothie before starting the journey on my borrowed beach cruiser. I got out of bustling San Pedro and over the Boca del Rio Bridge to the quieter side of the caye as the tightly packed buildings transitioned into construction sites with “coming soon” signs. I know I should have left earlier because the heat is already oppressive.
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I’d bought a few water bottles but felt like I had to use them sparingly. I’d stop every few minutes to rest. I saw a lizard cross the road and saw locals pass me on their own bikes. For most of the trip, there were hotels, bars, and restaurants along the way and I was never too far from civilization.
But as you get closer to the lagoon, there is less to see. I kept thinking I was getting close when I saw where to turn left, but I still had to cut clear across the island. The signage for “Secret Beach” started early so it kept appearing to be nearby. The path became much more sandy and harder to pedal.
As I got closer, more and more people started to pass me in golf carts with odd looks. I can’t say I blame them! But I’ll admit that if someone had offered me a ride, I would have taken it. At Guapo’s First and Last Stop, where you can grab a drink before or after a day of debauchery on the beach, I waved at the men sitting out front, promising (and lying) to return.
When I finally got to the end of the road, I saw a parking lot where a man told me I could leave my bike. I wasn’t yet sure which bar I wanted to go to, so I continued down the road to look at my options. I landed on the Bamboo Fence Restaurant and Swing Bar, where I propped my bike against a tree and found a seat. The lovely staff took great care of me, even bringing a beer into the water, where I had gone to cool off!
I visited during a weekday, so the beach was fairly tame, but I can imagine it gets very lively on weekends, with cars parked on both sides of the road. I spent a few hours sitting on the swings and drinking beer in the water. A boat came up with fresh fish for ceviche, which I’m sure is fantastic. All in, I spent about $11 on three beers.
After a few hours, I got ready to go as I didn’t want to be biking back in the dark. If I thought the trip there was bad, it was much worse heading back. The wind was now in the opposite direction, pushing me backward, and I was exhausted from sun and beer. I stopped often to rest and a few locals paused to talk to me. I treated myself to a beer at The Truck Stop closer to town before returning my bike.
Tips for Biking to Secret Beach
The trip is 7.5 miles each way, so be aware before you undertake it! But if you are going to, make sure your bike is in working order before you leave. There’s little chance you’ll have of finding the tools you need to repair along the way. Bring plenty of water, as much as you can reasonably carry. Wear sunscreen and a hat. This video shows you what the roads are like.
Otherwise, take a car or golf cart, which will take 30-45 minutes. You can also stay in this area as there are a few rentals and cabanas nearby. Casa Nova Cabanas is one of the options closest to the beach. For more tips, read my friend History Fan Girl‘s guide!
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