Cartagena: The Miami of Colombia

I knew that when planning my trip, I wanted to get at least a quick glimpse of the Caribbean coast, as it differs so greatly from the rest of the country. And I’m so glad I did, despite the weather so hot it left me breathless and the struggle to get there.

The journey to Colombia didn’t exactly go as planned when our evening flight was canceled in favor of one the following morning. This meant we missed our flight and had to rebook one and then another. After many hours in the Bogota airport, we finally made it to Cartagena in the late afternoon.

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We checked into our room at Casa Zahiri and immediately left to find one of the many street bars within Getsemani for a much-needed mojito. Exhausted from an unexpected two days of travel, it was all I could do to keep my eyes open and not be overwhelmed by the music and movement of weekend revelers. Returning to our room, I didn’t make it long before passing out in my bunk.

Exploring Cartagena

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The next morning, feeling rested, Sammi and I went in search of the most important thing: coffee. We ended up at Libertario Coffee Roasters, a very trendy coffee shop, for cold brew and avocado toast. We weren’t the only ones there as fellow travelers and locals had set up their laptops as a makeshift coworking space.

We took the time to walk around the city without a real plan, stopping to snap photos of the many murals as well as the kite festival going on outside the walls. We passed the house of Gabriel Garcia Marquez, whose book I was reading at the time, and popped in some stores, including Abaco Libros y Cafe and Tienda Escuelas Taller, a store selling crafts made by students. I wanted to buy everything, but it was still so early in the trip.

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The city reminded me of so many others I’d been to like San Juan and Santo Domingo, with its colorful buildings and balconies with overflowing flowers. We tucked into the modest Gold Museum, which is small but free, so it’s worth the time in the air conditioning.

We tucked into a few spots for drinks, starting with Alma, a hotel restaurant that is casual by day and upscale at night. For lunch, I had seared tuna and a tiki-inspired cocktail at El Arsenal: The Rum Box, a few blocks from our hostel. We went back to our room and spent the rest of the afternoon relaxing in the pool with our new German friends, sipping cheap beers.

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Continuing the night, our new friends took us to Casa de la Cerveza, a beer bar and restaurant on part of the city walls that overlooks the skyline. We sipped on craft beer and ate tacos before finishing the night at a rooftop bar in what became our only “big night out” of the trip.

Day Tripping to Islas del Rosario

Since we’d seen much of the city already, we booked the following day for a trip to the Islas del Rosario, a chain of barrier islands off the Cartagena coast. We booked through our hostel and were given vague instructions on what to do, making our way to the bustling port, where people tried to sell us sunscreen, hats, and other essentials.

Someone asked to see our ticket and told us to go wait, but we saw many boats load up over the course of an hour with no further instructions. Finally, someone pointed us toward a boat, a packed speedboat. We made our way out of the port, which felt a bit like Miami.

It’s a long story, but we didn’t end up liking our tour. The first few hours were spent dropping people off and picking up. We were forced to pay extra for either an aquarium or snorkeling, which ended up being in rocky water with mostly dead coral. The day ended at the beach for lunch, which was good.

Instead, I’d recommend one of the bigger catamarans like Bona Vida. You can also get a day pass for the beach clubs on Isla Tierra Bomba for under $50, which includes lunch and a welcome drink. Many of the hotels have their own setups there and there are also hotels on the island.

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Back on dry land, we changed clothes and went to our last dinner at El Beso, a delightful outdoor restaurant with a daily menu and cocktails. It was a favorite from the trip and the perfect spot to say farewell to Cartagena.

Things to Do in Cartagena

We didn’t make it to everywhere that was recommended to us, so I’m including them below for your own trip.

Tours and Attractions

Beyond Colombia– We took their tours elsewhere in the country and they were a great way to get introduced to a city!

Castillo de San Felipe de Barajas– The castle overlooking the city was built in 1536 to protect Cartagena from attacks.

Monasterio de La Popa– Built in 1607, this religious site operated as a convent and later as barracks for troops.

Palace of the Inquisition Cartagena– This museum covers the dark period of the Spanish Inquisition with artifacts, including instruments of torture.

Plaza de la Trinidad- This is where revelers gather on weekends for drinking and dancing.

Restaurants and Bars

Alquimico Bar– This hip bar is spread across three floors, including the rooftop, is known for its experimental cocktails and dishes.

Bohemia Restaurante- The modern Colombian restaurant has artfully prepared plates.

Café del Mar Ltda.– Come for sunset to this seafood and cocktail spot overlooking the water.

Cafe de la Manana– If your accommodations don’t have breakfast, start the day here for vegetarian-friendly dishes and coffee.

Colombitalia Arepas– Perfect for a snack on the go!

Demente BAR TAPAS– Featured in the New York Times for its cocktails and small plates.

La Cevichería– A favorite of the late great Anthony Bourdain, dine here for the refreshing seafood dish.

Restaurante Bar La Vitrola– The speakeasy-inspired restaurant has tapas and mojitos.

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