If you’ve followed this site with any regularity over the past decade, you’ll know that I’m happiest on the water. There was the week on a boat in Croatia and another in Turkey. And, of course, there are the dozens of trips to beachy locales and my time living in Sydney.
Sailing in the British Virgin Islands is a dream come true for many sailors and water enthusiasts, so when I got invited for a work trip, it was an easy sell. The BVI consists of more than 60 islands and cays, each with its own unique charm. The most popular places to go are Tortola, Virgin Gorda, Jost Van Dyke, and Anegada. You also might have heard of Necker Island, which belongs to Sir Richard Branson.
Prior to European contact, the BVI was inhabited by the Arawak and Carib peoples, and in the 1700s, the British established a settlement in Tortola, which became a haven for pirates and privateers. During these years, the economy was based on sugar cane and cotton plantations, which relied heavily on enslaved African labor.
The islands changed hands several times between the Dutch, English, and Spanish during this period. Slavery was abolished in 1834. The BVI became a British Crown Colony in 1956 and later a British Overseas Territory in 2002. It is now a self-governing territory with its own constitution.
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How to See the British Virgin Islands by Boat
The BVI is a British Overseas Territory made up of 50 Caribbean islands, and it is renowned for its stunning natural beauty, clear blue waters, and favorable sailing conditions year-round, with calm waters protected by the barrier reef. The islands are also relatively close together, making it easy to navigate from one anchorage to another, often within a short sail.
We were set to fly into St. Thomas, on the US side of the Virgin Islands, taking a water taxi to the British side to board our catamaran home for the week. As someone who has spent plenty of time on boats, I packed light, shoving all of my belongings into my cabin.
My group and I traveled with Navigare, one of many yacht charter companies that can be booked in the BVI and beyond with a variety of cabin sizes and amenities including an onboard cook. I felt like a guest on Below Deck, which has featured the islands in past seasons as we got a tour of the boat from the Nanny Cay dock on Tortola.
I flew from Atlanta to St. Thomas on Delta but there’s also a seasonal route from Miami to Beef Island in the BVI on American. It’s also possible to connect in San Juan, Puerto Rico via plane or even ferry. I recommend planning on a minimum of five days in the BVI, especially if you want to island hop, which you can do by private boat, as I did, or by public ferry.
Eating and Drinking in the British Virgin Islands
There’s something special about the watering holes of the British Virgin Islands, all signed by past travelers or tacked up with flags from the hundreds of sailors that pass through their doors. The Soggy Dollar Bar is one of the most famous, located on Jost Van Dyke, home of the famous Painkiller drink.
You can even buy a friend a drink to be cashed in at a later date. It gets its name from the fact that you can only get there by hopping from your boat into the water. They open early, but if you’re not ready for a cocktail, there’s also a coffee shop.
Another legendary spot on Jost is Foxy’s, opened in 1968 by Philicianno “Foxy” Callwood, who still can be seen sipping drinks at the bar and restaurant. He built his spot under the shade of the Tamarind trees, with canopies creating shade. Now, every surface of the walls and bars is covered in mementos, including driver’s licenses, flags, license plates, and stickers. Foxy’s hosts an annual full moon party and popular beach barbecues.
The Bitter End Yacht Club on Virgin Gorda is a family-owned island outpost that opened in the 1970s and is only accessible by boat. It was devastated by the 2017 hurricane but has been completely rebuilt with a bar made from a boat, watersports, a restaurant, and overnight accommodations. The yacht club also has its own private ferry from the Beef Island Airport.
Saba Rock opened as a diving resort in the 1960s, located in the middle of the bay. It gained a reputation for its Pirates Pub and lively happy hours. Today the resort, built with salvaged items from the original space, leans more luxury, with accommodations and restaurants. But it’s still the best place around to watch the sunset and drink a BBC, a banana, Baileys, and cream cocktail, with a meal of fresh Anegada lobster.
What to Do in the British Virgin Islands
There are, of course, plenty of things to do on the islands. But for me, the best part was just soaking it all in. Something I did do, however, was take a one-day sailing class with Offshore Sailing School, which operates out of Scrub Island Resort. Longer courses are available if you want to learn the ropes, literally.
The islands also have plenty of natural beauty and managed lands, but the most beautiful is The Baths, which originated as the site of beach baptisms. You can arrive at the incredible beach, protected by massive boulders, by land or sea.
Have you traveled to the British Virgin Islands?
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