San Juan is the bustling capital of the island of Puerto Rico. Before the arrival of Christopher Columbus in 1493, the island was inhabited by the Taíno people. In the 1500s, San Juan became a key Spanish outpost in the Caribbean, serving as a strategic military and trading hub with walled fortifications, some of which can still be seen today.
The island was ceded to the United States in 1898 following the Spanish-American War under the Treaty of Paris. Today, Old San Juan, the historic district, is known for its colorful colonial buildings, narrow cobblestone streets, and historic sites. The city is also a major cruise ship destination and a center for business and tourism in the Caribbean.
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The Neighborhoods of San Juan
Many travelers stay within the confines of Old San Juan, which certainly has its perks, but there’s so much more to see beyond it.
Old San Juan is where you’ll find most of the popular landmarks and restaurants including Barrachina Restaurant, said to be the originator of the piña colada drink. Stop by La Casa del Libro Museum and admire the art gallery above Chocobar. And you can’t miss dancing at La Factoria, voted one of the best bars in the world.
Condado is a thin strip of land between its namesake lagoon and the ocean with popular public beaches. Many hotels are located here plus restaurants on the water. Cocina Abierta, Pinky’s, and Paulina Escanes Restaurant are a few of the popular spots.
Miramar is just across the lagoon from Condado and has hotels, bars, and restaurants where locals and visitors alike flock. Soak up culture at MADMi Museo de Arte y Diseño de Miramar or borrow a paddleboard to navigate the lagoon before eating at the food truck park.
Ocean Park is a gated residential area that borders Calle Loiza, which has several restaurants, bars, and shops. Set to the east of Condado, it boasts beach clubs, adults-only hotels, and the large Parque Dr. José Celso Barbosa, a public green space.
San Juan Restaurants and Cafes
Puerto Rican cuisine is among the best in the world, but you’ll find a wide diversity of types of restaurants within greater San Juan.
Cafe Tresbe– For outdoor dining, check out this cafe in a converted shipping container with breakfast sandwiches, fish tacos, and live reggae music to set the mood.
Chocobar Cortes– This restaurant has multiple locations and was started by a family-owned chocolate company. This cafe has a full menu of dishes that incorporate the sweet treat into food and even cocktails. Don’t miss the mallorca burger and the chocolate grilled cheese.
Cocina Abierta– The restaurant by Argentinian Chef Martin Louzao features artfully prepared dishes on the tasting menu, including vegetarian options.
Donostia– The Ocean Park restaurant is known for its farm-to-table tapas-style dishes. By day, it’s a coffee shop and juice bar. In the evening, it’s BYOB so enjoy your own wine with mofongo, empanadas, and more.
El Jibarito– The colorful eatery is known for its Caribbean and Puerto Rican fare, including the signature mofongo, beef stew, and steak in a creole sauce.
La Isla– The trendy cafe functions as a coworking space, yoga studio, and bulk goods store. It also serves breakfast dishes like avocado toast plus artisan coffee drinks.
La Casita Blanca– The James Beard American Classics winner has been open for over 30 years and is loved for the crispy cod fritters and tamales, which you can enjoy with house-made hot sauce.
Lela’s Eatery– For healthy dishes and those for vegetarian diets, head to this restaurant near Ocean Park. The menu includes brunch fare like smoothies and omelets plus sandwiches and protein bowls.
La Cueva Del Mar– The casual Calle Loiza seafood spot can’t be missed, especially for the “famous” shrimp tacos, burgers, and daily cocktail specials.
Lote 23– The “gastronomic park” in Santurce has multiple kiosks that serve as incubators for aspiring restaurants. They rotate, but you can typically find Mexican food, Chicago style deep dish pizza, craft beer, and ice cream sandwiches.
Marmalade– The restaurant and wine bar incorporates the best of local produce and ingredients in its five-course tasting menus with optional wine pairings.
Mercado La Carreta– With two locations in the city, the restaurant is a great spot for a casual bite, including sandwiches, shredded pork, and brunch.
Miramar Food Truck Park– Choose from multiple trucks at this Miramar spot with covered seating, including poke bowls, bubble tea, pitas, and dumplings.
Paulina Escanes Restaurant– The restaurant has two locations plus a bakery, where you will find fish of the day, pozole, tortas, and steaks, paired with margaritas and wine.
Que Mamey Calle Loiza– This restaurant is one of the city’s best for Asian fusion and Caribbean fare, including weekly ramen nights and waffle brunch.
Santaella– Make a reservation before your trip to ensure a dining experience at this top-notch restaurant featuring modern Puerto Rican cuisine.
Vianda– Another reservations-only spot, this one focuses on farm to table ingreidents in its plates like pigs head fritters, salmon crudo, and lamb tagliatelle.
Yoko– You might not expect to find Japanese food in Puerto Rico, but this restaurant is one of the best. Chow down on sushi and izakaya.
Looking for more recommendations? Check out the book The Dining Traveler Guide to Puerto Rico.
San Juan Bars and Nightlife
San Juan has an incredible nightlife scene, whether you’re looking for trendy cocktail bars, dimly lit dive bar, or dance clubs that have thumping beats until well into the morning.
Bar La Unidad– The speakeasy-style cocktail bar has visually stunning and delicious drinks in the Miramar neighborhood.
Barrachina Restaurant– While the Hilton Caribe debates this, there’s a plaque that honors the restaurant as the originator of the famed piña colada. Stop by to taste test for yourself.
Cerveceria del Callejon– This brewpub carries a wide range of beer styles plus bites like dumplings and rice bowls.
JungleBird– This tropical-style bar has tiki drinks like its namesake drink and the Painkiller, along with creative cocktails and small bites.
La Factoria– The series of interconnected bars is one of the best in the world, each with a different vibe, where you can sip cocktails and dance with locals.
La Grieta– You’ll love the cozy vibes at this bar with exposed stone walls and vintage lighting. The menu includes mezcal and booze-free drinks.
La Penultima– Another one of the world’s best bars, this one has a menu of interesting spins on classic cocktails, along with beer, wine, and non-alcoholic drinks.
La Taberna Lupulo– This Old San Juan beer bar has a variety of styles, Puerto Rican, Belgian, English, German, and American brews, along with craft cocktails.
Machete– Enjoy casual bites and creative drinks at this spot on Calle Cerra in Miramar.
Ocean Lab Brewing– With an outpost near the airport, you can make this beachfront brewery your first stop to enjoy craft beer and upscale bar food.
If you’re a craft beer fan, check out the Craft Beer Adventure, which visits two of the island’s breweries.
Things to Do in San Juan
There’s no shortage of things to do in San Juan and even beyond if you don’t mind escaping for a day trip.
Bacardi Rum Distillery– Visit the mothership of Puerto Rican rum, accessible by a short ferry ride. Here, you can take a tour of the factory and end your visit with cocktails. You can also learn to make them on the mixology tour.
El Yunque National Forest– One of the most popular day trips is to this nearby tropical forest where you can come up close with local wildlife and admire the waterfalls. You can go on your own or book a tour.
Flavors of San Juan Food Tour– The best way to experience San Juan for the first time is on a food tour, which introduces travelers to the delicious flavors of the island.
Museo de Arte Contemporáneo de Puerto Rico– Founded in 1984, this museum honors the artistic traditions of the island.
Night Kayak Excursion in Condado Lagoon– Navigate the waters of the lagoon with LED-lit kayaks.
Old San Juan City Walking Tour– Learn about the history of beautiful Old San Juan, which brings you to the big landmarks.
Ron del Barrilito– Another rum company also offers tours of the facility. Book your Skip-the-Line Heritage Tour Ticket before you go.
Salsa Dance Workshop– Learn to dance from the experts in this daytime class.
San Juan National Historic Site– The National Park-managed site includes Spanish-area colonial fortifications, specifically San Felipe del Morro and San Cristóbal.
San Juan Guided Snorkel Tour– See Puerto Rico’s most interesting creatures from underwater.
Santa María Magdalena de Pazzis Cemetery- The beautiful waterfront cemetery is an essential place to wander, home to the graves of actor and director José Ferrer and several politicians.
Sunset Harbor Boat Ride in San Juan– End the day with a sunset cruise in the San Juan harbor.
Shopping in San Juan
Browse the shops around the city, where you’ll find handcrafted goods and vintage clothing.
Casa Del Artesano– Pick up artwork and locally made souvenirs at this gallery.
Electroshock– You never know what you might find at this secondhand clothing store.
GuardaRopa– Stop by this Old San Juan shop for vintage clothing, jewelry, and accessories.
Vice Versa– Shop for vintage home decor and clothing from this eclectic store in Calle Loiza.
Where to Stay in San Juan
You’ll find all the major hotel chains in San Juan, along with local boutique options in Old San Juan as well as on the beach, depending on your preference.
Caribe Hilton– This old-school hotel also claims to be the home of the piña colada, but in any event, the resort and spa boasts beach access, five swimming pools, and nine restaurants.
Condado Vanderbilt– Perhaps the nicest hotel in San Juan, the luxury accommodations include a top-notch spa, restaurant, and fitness center with ocean views.
Dreamcatcher– The quirky hotel in Ocean Park has a series of stylish rooms centered around a courtyard, with a restaurant offering all-day dining plus free coffee and tea and beach chairs to rent.
Hotel El Convento– Set in a former 350-year-old convent, the hotel has a great cocktail bar and offers a daily manager’s reception. There’s even a fitness center and library.
Hotel Palacio Provincial– The conveniently located adults-only hotel has large rooms, a rooftop pool, and breakfast at the onsite restaurant.
Sheraton San Juan Resort & Casino– Don’t let the convention center hotel moniker fool you. This sprawling resort has an infinity pool, multiple restaurants, and a casino to try your luck.
Rentals- If you want the Boriqua experience, you can also rent a place in one of the funky neighborhoods. We recommend this Ocean Park apartment or the Old San Juan suite.
Transportation in San Juan
When it comes to getting around San Juan, it’s fairly easy, despite the size. It’s easy to book an Oneway Transfer within San Juan from the Luis Muñoz Marín International Airport into Old San Juan. Once you’re in Old San Juan, most places are an easy walk as long as you have a bottle of water and comfortable shoes.
Car rentals are easy to get, but I’d only recommend it if you’ll be traveling to other parts of Puerto Rico like Vieques or to the west. Bike rentals are common if you’re going shorter distances around the city and there are some areas with bike lanes.
The city also has a bus network and ferry that connects the city. You can ride for 75 cents, using a pass purchased at the station. The Tren Urbano light train connects San Juan to Guaynabo and Bayamón with rides for $1.50 each. There’s even a free trolley in Old San Juan. If that’s not enough, rideshares like Uber are very cheap and taxis can be hailed at hotels and tourist areas. Get a free ride on Lyft by entering the code “CAROLINE868074”.
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