This time last year, I was down in Puerto Rico for the third time, to attend a conference I’d been one of the organizers for. I knew my next few days were going to be overwhelming so I booked myself a solo getaway to Culebra, one of Puerto Rico’s two main barrier islands.
I’d visited Vieques with my family several years ago so I had a general idea of what to expect. But when I left the jet bridge at the airport to head towards my nine-seater plane, solo took on another meaning. I was the only person on board the flight apart from the pilot.
The airport was little more than a strip in a grassy field. The room I’d booked didn’t seem too far so I pulled my rolling suitcase out of the one-room terminal and down the road, greeted by wild horses munching away.
A nice lady with a van offered me a ride, but I waved her away, walking past a bar selling drive-thru bushwhackers and towards the hill. I remember reading instructions on the booking website about how to reach the apartment, but it wasn’t until I’d pulled my bag completely up the hill that I realized I was meant to be on the lower street.
I finally found the place, huffing and puffing as I found the air conditioning. The simple space overlooks the bay and has a small kitchen. But I found that the lock didn’t work. I sent a message to the owner, who soon sent a neighbor to fix it.
My second mistake, after walking from the airport, was traveling on a holiday, when many places were closed. I walked down the street and found most closed. It was nearly an hour later that I finally found somewhere to eat. The last mistake was when it was time to leave. I didn’t want to walk back in the dark but no taxis would answer, so I made the trek back with only my phone for light. Thankfully, I was in one of the safest places imaginable.
The following days were spent relaxing as I finally got the hang of the island. I woke daily to the sound of roosters, drinking tea with a book before setting out. I borrowed a golf cart to explore all corners of the island, from the food truck overlooking the airport to the soft sand Playa Flamenco and its graffiti-covered tanks. I watched pelicans dive for prey and listened to the neighbors playing music.
If you’ve been to Vieques, it’s a very different experience, much more off-the-grid. Culebra may not be perfect, but it’s certainly special.
The History of Culebra
Originally inhabited by the Taino people, Culebra was reportedly visited by Christopher Columbus in 1493. In 1868, it was ceded to the United States, starting a relationship that would continue to this day. The US Navy used the island for operations from World War II through the 1970s when local opposition moved the branch to neighboring Vieques.
Much of the island is now protected as part of a national wildlife refuge, including the three smaller islands, or cays, accessible from Culebra: Culebrita, Cayo Norte, and Luis Pena. Now around 2,000 people live on the island.
How to Get to Culebra
When I traveled to Vieques years ago, the ferry was from Fajardo on the east side of the main island. But since then, they’ve started operating out of Ceiba. It would have required me to rent a car and leave it at the marina before taking the 45-minute journey each way. The timetables can also be unreliable.
Instead, I flew Air Flamenco from the international airport a few hours after my flight from Atlanta. Flights are also available from the domestic airport for a slightly cheaper fare, but you’ll also need to consider the taxi ride. There are also connections to other parts of the Caribbean like the British Virgin Islands.
Where to Eat and Drink in Culebra
Before going, it’s not a bad idea to bring a small bag of essentials. I was visiting on a holiday and I didn’t realize that most of the shops and restaurants would be closed. Later during the trip, I popped into the store for drinks and bites to cook in my apartment.
There are also plenty of restaurants, but you won’t necessarily find them on Google Maps listings and the hours vary. And since basically everything has to be brought over from the main island, the prices are higher than you might expect elsewhere. Everything is in US dollars.
But I did have plenty of favorites. Zaco’s Tacos saved me on the night of my arrival when nothing else was open and I enjoyed a margarita and fish tacos. Come y Vete had great empanadas and views of landing planes. For my last night in town, I loved watching the people feed the tarpon at the Dinghy Dock.
What to Do in Culebra
In my opinion, the best thing to do is relax. After all, there’s plenty of sightseeing waiting for you back in San Juan. Instead, I spent my days beach hopping from the rocky shores of Tamarindo Beach with its incredible snorkeling to sipping a sneaky rum at Flamenco Beach, which charges a fee but has food, bathrooms, and lockers.
Many like taking day trips to Culebrita and Cayo Norte or joining one of the diving excursions. There are also some must-see landmarks like the Thomas Dambo sculpture in the harbor, saved from a hurricane, and the graffiti-covered American tanks at Flamenco, a reminder of the military presence and a popular photo op for Instagrammers.
Tips for Visiting Culebra
Unlike Vieques, Culebra only has one town area, which is close to where the ferry lets out. It’s where many of the restaurants are located and where one of the only hotels is. For this reason, you’ll likely want to rent a golf cart or car for your stay. There are a handful of companies, most right by the airport. The island also only has two gas stations so keep that in mind when navigating the island.
Speaking of hotels, Club Seaborne is really the only one. The rest of the places to stay are rentals like the one I used. It was simple but had everything I needed, namely WiFi, easy access to the airport, and chairs I could borrow to take to the beach. I recommend giving yourself at least two nights here and packing light. You won’t need much!
PIN IT
Leave a Reply