I’m finally starting to claw my way out of the long list of posts I’ve never gotten around to writing. In fall 2023, I traveled to Vancouver for a conference and spent a few extra days on a post-trip to Vancouver Island. The capital city, Victoria, is one of the most beautiful places I’ve ever been and I could easily have spent an entire week roaming around.
Victoria was originally home to the Songhees and Esquimalt Nations before the arrival of the Hudson’s Bay Company, which established Fort Victoria as a fur trading post. By 1849, the British government made Vancouver Island a colony, and Victoria was its capital. It became a hub during an 1858 gold rush and British Columbia joined the Canadian Confederation in 1871.
Victoria’s Chinatown is not only the oldest in Canada but it’s also the second oldest in North America, after San Francisco’s, thanks in large part to the Chinese immigrants that arrived during the gold rush. Victoria is also the gateway to the rest of Vancouver Island, making up over 12,000 square miles.
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How to Get to Victoria
There are two ways to reach Victoria: flying or ferry. Harbour Air is the main provider offering seaplanes from Vancouver and other cities including seasonal routes to Whistler. The planes are small, so packing light is ideal. Book your one-way Scenic Seaplane transfer from Victoria to Vancouver in advance.
The other option is the ferry, especially if you want to bring your car with you to explore the island. The ferry from Vancouver takes around 1 hour and 35 minutes. There’s also a ferry from Seattle, Washington, which takes 2 hours and 45 minutes.
Where to Eat in Victoria
Afternoon Tea at the Empress is a time-honored tradition brought from England. The lobby lounge welcomes guests with 21 types of tea plus cocktails like the gin and tonic. With your tea, you’ll have tea sandwiches and petit fours. Q at the Empress also hosts Sunday roast with roast beef and Yorkshire pudding.
The Courtney Room crafts seasonal menus that showcase the finest local ingredients, earning the title of Restaurant of the Year. Signature dishes include fresh-shucked oysters, in-house dry-aged steaks, and house-made pasta like potato ravioli with Dungeness crab. Don’t miss the cocktails infused with interesting items like sea kelp and spruce tips.
Tractor Everyday Healthy Foods is a Canadian quick-service restaurant chain that emphasizes fresh, wholesome meals made with real ingredients. Founded in 2013, Tractor has expanded across British Columbia and Ontario, with locations in cities like Vancouver, Victoria, and Toronto.
Looking for more suggestions? Eater has a great guide to where to eat in Victoria.
Where to Drink in Victoria
Established in 2020, Herald Street Brew Works offers a constantly changing selection of small-batch beers like IPAs and German-style gose and dunkelweizen. The brewery also has pizza and other snacks.
Sea Cider Farm & Cider House is a family-owned, organic cidery located on the Saanich Peninsula, just minutes from Victoria on Vancouver Island. Established in 2007, Sea Cider even takes apples from its neighbors and trades them for finished cider of many varieties.
With its retro-inspired tasting room, Swift Brewing has a diverse selection of beers, including popular choices like the Smooth Operator Pale Ale and Disco Juice IPA. I really enjoyed my beer here, not to mention the antiques it is decorated with.
Victoria Distillers is a distinguished Canadian distillery renowned for crafting premium, small-batch spirits, notably the acclaimed Empress 1908 Gin. Established in 2008 and situated in Sidney, British Columbia, it stands as one of Canada’s oldest artisan distilleries. Sheringham Distillery is another popular distillery on the island.
What to Do in Victoria
Butchart Gardens is located around 30 minutes from Victoria and was built on the site of a former limestone quarry in 1921. Still family-run, the sprawling gardens now span 55 acres with the original sunken garden plus a Japanese garden and Mediterranean garden. The site has over 1 million visitors every year. The best way is to get a Victoria City Tour & Butchart Gardens & Entry combo ticket.
The Malahat SkyWalk offers a 10-story spiral (and accessible!) walkway for panoramic views of the surrounding area and sculptures made from reclaimed materials. At the top of the tower is a net where you can see directly beneath you before taking the slide back down. It’s named because of its location on the traditional territory of the Malahat Nation. You can buy your Malahat SkyWalk tickets online in advance.
Many people come to Victoria for the chance to spot humpback and orca whales from sightseeing cruises that operate out of the harbor. Prince of Whales has operated zodiac and cruiser ships for the past 30 years to see them and is biosphere certified. Book your Victoria Sunset Whale Watching Adventure early.
Victoria is also a great wellness locale. The Empress has its own spa, but HAVN is another unique experience, set on a converted barge in the harbor, with saunas and views of the arriving seaplanes. Hot Tub Boat Victoria is another cool way to see the city while enjoying a soak. Book yours here.
I was thrilled with the city’s incredible shopping, thanks to that exchange rate. I thrifted for goodies at Value Village but also liked the home decor at Paboom, locally made items at Makers, and sustainable clothing at Salt Pure Goods.
Where to Stay in Victoria
The Fairmont Empress Hotel was built in 1908 by the Canadian Pacific Railway as part of its network of luxury hotels across Canada to encourage tourism and rail travel. It is named for Queen Victoria, who was the Empress of India. Past guests include Queen Elizabeth II, Shirley Temple, Rita Hayworth, and the Beatles. Even if you don’t stay here, you’ll want to look around.
If you don’t want to splurge on the Empress (or it’s fully booked), there are great options around the city. The Inn at Laurel Point is British Columbia’s first carbon-neutral hotel and operates as a social enterprise, with 200 rooms and suites and an onsite restaurant. There are also several houseboats in the harbor, which make for a cool stay.
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